"I guess that last shrug of the shoulders means; be it on your head then foreign hombre" I muttered this to myself as 'Mi Capitana' of the wee ferry across the 'Guadalqivir river' at 'Coria del Rio' gave an accomplished yawn and strolled back down the slipway to ferry the next load across.
To give him his due he had spotted me waiting and left his ferry to tell me the slipway on the opposite bank was steeper than this side and prone to damage anything with an overhang at the back. We managed language wise between us to decide he would take the by now loaded ferry across while I pumped up Sadie's airbags to give greater rear end clearance. This technique plus the hefty towbar slung underneath Sadie's delicate plastic rear end has on several occasions saved the day and any possible damage.
Thus it proved on this occasion too. There was a scrunch as we boarded when towbar bottomed slightly. No concern to me but excited rearward looks and increased Spanish chatter from all the moped mounted homeward bound agricultural workers. Admittedly there was a louder even more exciting scrunch as we disembarked but again no problems with plenty of throttle giving a brisk, determined and smooth transit to dry land. I stopped up the road to deflate the airbags and check for any damage. None at all on Sadie and I certainly was not going to walk back to check the ferry! These occasions serve to remind me how lucky I was when I purchased Sadie. All these little extras which had been added, and which I did not appreciate at the time, have proved to be invaluable during our travels.
The ferry crossing was not on the map. Well; not until after the event that is, at which point I examined the map in more detail with the magnifying glass! We had done our usual, got off the main roads and gone rural. This also enabled us to avoid the large metropolis of Seville as we negotiated 'Parque Nacional de Donana' just north of 'Sanlucar de Barrameda.' This huge low lying area of river 'Guadalquivir' estuary marshland tends to be much sought out by birdwatchers as it is a major birdy type motorway service area on the migratory route of numerous birds. Certainly there were some fantastic big Heron like birds flying around who seemed to be continually having to protect nests from gulls and some other predatory hawk like bird.
Flamingos too. A huge flock of them espied while Tanya and I were on a forward scouting mission on the bike to check if the track/road was motorhomable. It was albeit slowly!! A lovely 2 days were enjoyed in this area completely on our own apart from one ranger gently reminding me the area is a 'Parque Nacional' and as such no camping is allowed. Very tactful he was as it was morning and pretty obvious that I had been there all night. He did not raise the subject so neither did I.
After the excitement of the ferry we kicked main road tarmac for a while and stopped for a wet wet night on the side of a wide gravel track about 10k short of Huelva on the other side of Donana Parque at a soulless resort called 'Matalascanas.'
Right now, Wed March 13 at 10am it is sunny but cool and we are neatly hidden behind some bushes which render us out of sight of the busy road about 200m away. We are just West of 'Punta Umbria' and deep within sand dunes where I can see the Atlantic washing in over the numerous shallow sandbanks. We've been out for an early morning walk along the beach. As usual we just kept walking and did miles more than originally intended. Really good though feeling the cobwebs of the mind lifting as the beauty of the morning unfolds.
I miss Kate on these walks probably more than at any other time. However; as Buddhist Psychology points out. 'Examine thought for reality.' Yes true, and I have to admit most 'beach walking' Kate and I enjoyed, and as such the root of these arisen memories, were on similar beaches but in really hot June/July weather and with little clothing on.
The reality. A March morning at 8am on a sunny and gorgeous looking Spanish beach wrapped up in scarf and big warm coat against the bitter North West wind whipping down and sandblasting you.
Reality is also Tanya simply delighting in this environment and doing 10k for every 5k of mine. She, Tanya that is, and her delight on these beach walks is the continuation of the love Kate and I shared. Kate, either consciously or not, new what she was doing bringing Tanya into our lives. I could not wish for a more loving and understanding companion for my travels.
Yes that's right, I did say understanding ..... she has to be as she listens so patiently and attentively to all my frequent idiotic drivels and ramblings. I am afraid the reality is that now I would quickly drive a real wife bonkers!
Ah well; back to present time and even more reality. S'ppose I had better wash up, wash myself and make the bed etc. Mmmmm, warming up now too. Guess then it'll be time for coffee outside in the sun. Gosh by then it should be lunch time.
"Tanya. I gotta a kind of feelin we aint gonna be movin from here today. Whaddya reckon? ..... Tanya ...... TAANYAA ......" Oh! there she is over there among the dunes .... tail up and happy as a travellin dune surfin doggy can be."
- - - -
I did not remain alone in the dunes for long as up rolled 'Lord Liberty', an older and bigger motorhome who discharged 2 young family's where Mums and Dads sported dreadlocks but who, though Belgian, spoke good English. They were all just great company and even there 1yr old Collie called Monty was tolerated well and became quite good company for Tanya.
Canoe was soon out and on the water. I had fun paddling around with Tanya across the tidal channel to the exposed at low tide sandbanks. However; I have to admit to having even more fun as I watched these two swarthy dreadlocked, bearded and fully clothed Dads towing their respective daughters around in the canoe and of course getting totally sea soaked themselves in the process.
"No worry heh, n great fun" were the jist of the comments as canoe and bedraggled Dads appeared over the dunes some considerable time after young daughters had toddled back along the beach to their Mums. It has been a real privilege to share time with them. It may continue too as they also are Portugal bound and share the same taste in wildcamping sites as myself.
Guess we could quite easily bump into 'Lord Liberty' again.
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