Yup; hit Portugal, Algarve, a couple of days ago and straight into Motorhome world big time. They are everywhere, hundreds of them, big, small, mega big with trailer loads of cars behind them. Mostly Dutch, German, and French with a smattering of British. Every little bit of space between beach and resort has Motorhomes on it. Most is free parking with, I was told, more and more charging barriers being installed. That does not suprise me. We spent one night amid these 'main road' silver surfer type Motorhomers before this morning, just after a thunderous deluge, we headed out with sat nav set for the rural hinterland and the wee roads. As usual we have enjoyed a delightful drive through, admittedly damp, countryside to our present wild spot high on a hill surrounded by pine woods, spring flowers and overlooking 'Barragem Odiliette."
And guess what? We have not seen another Motorhome all day.
Peace, quiet and very pleasant walking. A beautiful afternoon of meditative calm has been spent here. This happens so often. Driving along slowly and happily when a spot with an eye catching view presents itself. In we go for a quick look and there we stay.
The bonus with this particular spot is a really good 3G internet reception. Radio 2 clear and consistent. A real treat.
Rural Portugal first impressions are; - it is less populated, villages are smaller, more agricultural, and far less commercial. Hills and winding roads are more gentle but there are a lot more 'unmetalled' (no tarmac) minor roads. We have already delved down a few of these. One to view two old windmills atop a hill. The first was a real ruin whereas the second one had big stone mill wheels in place and old wooden peg cogs still attached to the main windmill shaft. A journey back in time that one was.
The other 'unmetalled road led down to a beautiful sheltered and sunny spot by the side of 'Rib (river) Foupana.'
"Wow Tanya! Will you just look at this for a wildcamping spot eh!"
She had jumped out as soon as we had stopped but strangely had not gone wandering off but had soon returned to Sadie. I stepped out and walked the few paces to the riverbank and just stood there taking in the warm sunshine on my back, the sound of frogs and the sight of smooth slow flowing water imparting that same slowing down back to me. Also the sensation on the legs ..... Sensation on the legs? ...... What the .... ruddy hell ......!! All of a sudden calm and peace were gone and I was jumping around while slapping at legs and brushing squillions of ants off.
The ground was crawling with them, all along this particular section of the riverbank. I don't think I have ever seen such a wide area so heavily populated by the industrious little beasties. They were everywhere and quite frankly had me amazed by their sheer number and density. I would liken it to the whole earth being a big city but one that is overcrowded to an unimaginable level.
"My goodness Tanya they are already half way up Sadie's wheels and tyres. Time for us to exit eh!".
And we did. Not without taking a few guests along either!! I'm still coming across the odd one or two this morning here at our lonely out of the way, but ant free, spot by a wee 'Barragem' (dam) somewhere North of Tavira on the N397. Beautiful it was last night. This morning though it is pishing down once more. I'm not worried though as it is as the forecast predicted with the rest of the week looking goodish.
We take our time on these wet mornings and I often read for a while. At present I am working my way slowly through 'Les Miserables' by Victor Hugo. I notice a remarkable coincidence. I read of the godly Bishop of D... shunning his new Bishops Palace and instead swopping it for the much smaller hospital which is attached to said Bishops Palace. The Bishop of D ... is very much a man for, and of, the poor and an anathema to the norm of the day which was the regal pomp, sumptuousness and greed that Bishopry endowed upon it's encumbents.
So. I have a days internet access via my phone and as I catch up with world news I read of the new Pope Francis shunning his regal red cloak and exclaiming when first shown the papal apartment. 'You could get 300 poor people in here.'
"Wow!" I thinks. "The Bishop of D.... has finally reached Rome!"
Well good on yu Popey boy. You stir em up but God help you mate, and if he aint gonna help you then I guess we're all in bovver, cos you got a direct line and all that. But you definitely got one hell, if you see what I mean like, and excuse the pun, one hell of a job on you're hands!
Hmmmm! Guess I need to meditate/reflect upon that for a wee while yet ehh!! :-)
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TAVIRA
We like Tavira. Well actually more to rhe point we like this particular wildcamping spot just up from the beach and on the salt marsh estuary about 1 km from the town. Opposite is 'Isla de Tavira' a popular tourist spot with a passenger only ferry just up from us but on the opposite bank of a smaller river.
This will be our third night here and still not another motorhome in sight. I'm quite surprised really as there is plenty of space. Mind you once you leave the nice paved track leading to a posh hotel the track is a bit rough. I found that to my cost this morning!
The day dawned, and stayed, beautiful. An ideal beach, sunbathing and canoe day. I moved Sadie about 150m to where the track ends on the beach. There is a turning area there and guess who was rather silly, mis-judged it and got Sadie's front end well and truly stuck in soft sand. Took me half an hour of shoveling sand, fetching and laying down rocks under her wheels before, with fingers crossed and engine revving I let the clutch in. There was a shudder and a bumping and then, thankfully she shot backwards and clear of her predicament. This by the way was much to the amusement of all the locals who were now also starting to arrive to take advantage of the fine weather and the very low tides. Bucket loads of all sorts of shellfish were seen arriving at peoples cars as the day wore on.
Once I had correctly parked Sadie I quickly filled in the deep and incriminating ruts Sadie had just extricated herself from. Hmmmm; another lesson learned. Motorhomes and soft sand are not the most supportive of companions!
Anyway; on with the day and in particular blowing up canoe, loading lunch and Tanya into it and paddling over to 'Isla de Tavira.' While over there I lugged canoe over the dunes and onto the wave ridden beaches on the Atlantic side. Now that was good fun with, I have to say, a word of caution. Blow up canoes and steep waves equal frequent rinse cycles for the guy holding the paddle. It was not long before Tanya, who during this escapade remained beach side, welcomed her bedraggled master back and trotted happily alongside as he lugged said canoe, now like himself, decidedly wet, back to the calm side of the sandspit where we stopped for a welcome lunch. Great fun even though it reminded me once again that I am not a youngster anymore. I remember windsurfing days where rinse cycles in waves were tolerated for hours on end. Half an hour today and 3 good dunkings and I was k k k knackered!!
The day before it was 'Vitineria' time for Tanya once more. She has developed a bit of an ear infection which was not getting any better. I have to say my first experience of a Portugese Vet was a good one. He was very amiable, knew his stuff and spoke a smattering of English. Hopefully the twice daily drops of medical goo plus cleaning out the ear with cotton wool buds will do the trick. Tanya of course does not like the treatment but she does seem a little less agitated today and is once again starting to flap her ears noisily and normally.
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Saturday March 23. Another wet day unfortunately with the forecast not looking good for travelling onward in a westward direction. I'm on a campsite for 3 days. The rain is not helpful when the plan is to catch up on washing drying etc. However; I am aware all of you back there in the UK are having it far worse than me with heavy snow, flooding etc.
Guess I'll stay down hear a for maybe just a wee while yet!
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