Godfellow and his pictures

"Heavens above will you look at that Tanya and let's just shut this window like right now!" 

It was just before eight am, the sun was shining and there was not a breath of wind to rustle the purple heather landscape in our secluded perch above Loch Sgiopoirt in South Uist. Tanya was, as usual, having her morning tummy rub on the bed as I lazily came to after a good night's sleep. I often open the sliding window at the head of my bed which is at the rear of the motorhome. Tanya loves then to put her nose outside and have a good sniff of morning and all its doggy promises.
However; ..... sunny warm morning ....... not a breath of wind ........ Scotland in all it's colourful Hebridean August glory ....... Well; It means only one thing ........ Midges!! ....... Huge clouds of them cavorting in ecstatic dances of blood sucking anticipation of Sadie disgorging its human and doggy content.

They really are a sight to behold when appearing in such vast numbers outside of every window. But the morning was beautiful and I knew brisk movement would render the number of midges able to bite face and hands tolerable. So it was on with the recently purchased 'George from Asda' hoody which was duly tied tightly round the face. Binoculars and camera in pocket. A quick spray of 'Avon Skin so soft' to further deter the blood suckers. A leap from the door into their midst and away Tanya and I went at a brisk pace which thankfully did the trick of providing a moving target accessible only to the fittest and most intelligent of midgy society.

Oh! And what a reward. To be overlooking a western Isles sea loch, deathly still and mirroring the morning sky of benign blue and fluffy white is to see Godfellow and his/her artistic skills in the no walls or roof gallery of 'now' or 'in the moment'. Human artists can capture and portray skillfully such vistas and indeed they too take your breath away with their accuracy, use of colour and individual perception. No one though, can provide such a gallery as this Godfellow artist. Every millimetre twist and turn, of the eye, a new three sixty degree panorama of unsurpassed beauty presents itself. My attempts to photograph wee bits of this breathless vista were, I knew, mere pin pricks of mediocracy against such incalculable perfection. Plus we could not stop moving or within milliseconds the squadrons of midges gathered together in numbers also incalculable!

We were soon back in Sadie enjoying breakfast along with a few guests who, as is the Midgy way of life, died off relatively quickly and left us in peace. The door was opened again at ten thirty. Not a midge in sight and another pleasant walk was enjoyed. The magnificence of the early morning was now not to be seen. No; there was now a breeze rippled bluish grey sea loch under an amassing mixture of high hazy stratus and rolling grey Cumulus. Bright, benign and with blue sky to the north it still was, but the unwordable beauty of the early morning had gone.

What now then Tanya eh?" Says I as I mentally struggled with 'shall we move on? Shall we stay? Or whatever. When I reach this point in my deliberations there is usually a shrug of the shoulders as once again I acknowledge the 'don't know' aspect of this new life of mine. As usual too, something always turns up. This time it was two local ladies taking advantage of the weather and arriving for a walk and a picnic. They pointed out a particular walk they had done previously which of course saw Tanya and I well into it ten minutes later. I guess, looking back, it was the icing on the cake. The sun re appeared as we meandered around the sea loch and I just could not resist working down to the shoreline, stripping off and skinny dipping in the cold, but not as cold as expected, loch. Exhilerating!

The wonderful day continued as we drove over the causeway into North Uist and perched for the night on the magnicent North coast beaches between Machair and Solas.

I reckon Kite flying tomorrow eh Tanya?

Outer Hebrides

Last night I was at the top of the hill overlooking Oban, Forth of Lorn, Lismore and in the distance the Sound of Mull which was to be the ferry route I would travel tomorrow to Lochboisdale in South Uist. I had arrived earlier in the afternoon to a sunny, warm and bright Oban. I have to add here this is most unusual. Kate and I travelled to Oban several times but this is the first time I have experienced a dry and blue sky Oban. A nice bonus. I had intended to wild camp overnight but unintentionally arrived at Oban campsite.  At fifteen quid another bonus as I could 'do all the necessary's a motorhome demands plus luxuriate in a good hot shower.

The evening was gorgeous with the not too strenuous walk up the hill a pleasant exercise after the evening meal. Tanya had her exercise too as she strained on the lead with, I may add, splendid use of all four legs, trying to get free and chase the sheep which were in no particular hurry to scatter themselves as we approached. Yes. I am afraid she does have that discrepancy of doggy brain which means lead on whenever the woolly jumpered grass engined beasties are encountered.

So here we are a day later wild parked at the southernmost point of South Uist. The waves are gently crashing onto the white sandy beach and Sadie is neatly perched just above on a convenient stony area. Evening is drawing toward night now with the westward panorama turning to darker shades of blue and grey as the sun rolls away behind firstly, her cloud cover, then horizon and so taking her myriad coloured pallet onward to yet more sunset adoring eyes.

The ferry was five hours but what views as we sailed up the Sound of Mull past Skye, Rum and then out into deeper waters as the Hebridean Isles slowly presented themselves ahead but then disappeared in the mists of squally showers.

I'll give Cal Mac full marks too for allowing well behaved dogs into the passenger areas. She thoroughly enjoyed the experience and the 'not too rough' sea movement did not for one moment spoil her enjoying her pre prepared evening meal.

After five hours on a ferry though we were both glad to finally settle Sadie and release and relieve with a good romp along this beautiful wild and desolate beach.  Actually not so desolate as there is an Inn about half a mile further on at roads end. There is a surprising flow of traffic going to and fro. Never mind. The search for real isolation starts in earnest tomorrow. For now a wee bit of traffic along with no intelligible radio, no internet and no mobile phone signal will have to suffice. TV I hear you say? Well you are certainly correct to ask as Sadie is of course proud owner of a fully functioning satellite TV system.  I'm afraid though the 'emotion grabbing drivel' electronic hypnotizer screen has no appeal whatsoever to me. I'm not a regular TV person under normal circumstances and most definitely not when the whole of  universal creation is majestically displayed before me through a panoramic motorhome windscreen.

D'you think Michele is right? 

Perhaps I am y'know. Am turning into one of those recluse type of elderly, eccentric (read, 'daft') grumpy hermits. Ahhhh well! At least I'm enjoying it!

Sticks, Canoes and Midges.

I only went in there for a fibre-glass gel coat repair kit. 

"How come then, Stevey boy, you are now driving away with another new blow up two man canoe?". "Awww, c'mon, give me a break, it was just too good a deal to walk away from!"

I was on my way to Cashel forest to complete my journey from the special beach at Port Lligat in Spain. The three pieces of driftwood faithfully collected from the beach were soon to be resting with Kate at her beautiful spot overlooking Loch Lomond. The Chandlers in Glasgow were on my route and I needed the fibre-glass gel repair kit for a couple of small repairs to Sadie. I was not to know that on display was a really good quality, last of the stock, blow up two man canoe. A good price too which became even less after a bit of bargaining. Well. I just could not resist it. Especially with a trip to the Hebrides coming up and the potential for fun already established over the past few weeks with the little one man canoe.

Budgets? "Errrr yes! They will need to be re jigged a bit......again!

Canoe was duly flung into Sadie and the journey to Cashel continued. A quick lunch conveniently taken during a heavy shower then Tanya and I headed up the track to Kate's bench and memorial spot at the viewpoint.

The views were as usual spectacular. More so as there was a mixture of heavy shower clouds over the hills with equal amounts of sunlight giving a forever changing breathtaking panorama. There was a crowd up there too. Unfortunately they were not there for the panoramic sunshine and cloud driven video show. They were there for my blood! They were serious too and in vast numbers.

Midges!

I was in shorts, short sleeved shirt, sandals and carrying an umbrella to fend off the showers. There was no doubt about it. I was manna from heaven for these squillions of voracious Scottish Midges.

I did reverently place the sticks. I did manage a short reflection but then had to move swiftly as they were literally covering me and biting like hell. Tanya was also getting affected so was equally pleased to be moving which thankfully gave us some relief from the hovering clouds of sharp jawed and blood lusting terrorists of the Scottish heather. As I write this my arms, legs and face are like pin cushions with little red Midgy bites.

A different visit but with mission achieved and still only late afternoon. I had booked a site for the night just across the road at the Caravan and Camping Clubs Forestry site. This was right on the Loch and thankfully clear of Midges.

Water. New Canoe. I guess it was a 'No brainer' really. An hour later saw Tanya and I on the Loch Lomond island directly across from the campsite. New Canoe was OK!  Swim in the Loch was OK too and gave relief and curative balm to a skin hot and stressed with the effort required in dealing with the recently experienced Midge holocaust.

I am informed the Outer Hebrides are not too bad in respect of Midges!

Hmmmmm! I'll let you know.

Still away with Grandchildren

"Grampeeeee!"  The look said it all as Jenna screamed at me. The largish stone aimed and delivered and causing large splash just by her had the desired effect. Hilarity all round as Grampy was once again admonished as the wicked purveyor of unpleasant and scary happenings.

I was away this time with Grandchildren Mia and Jenna on our way North West to the silver sanded beaches of Arisaig & Mallaig. The weather forecast indicated 'dry', always a bonus in Scotland, and parents Kirsten and Kevin indicated no rush to return them. Hmmmm!

Sainsbury for supplies, Dalrigh car park for lunch. The afternoon saw us over Rannoch moor, through Glen Coe and then over the Corran ferry where upon disembarking we hung a left. Hey presto, wild camping for the night on the edge of Loch Sunart at Aberay forest car park.

Graham the Kayaker arrived later and pitched his tent. I was quite glad to see that as the 'No overnight camping' sign was clearly displayed. It is always good to be in the company of other like minded mature, OK elderly, camping rebels. Graham was grateful for the invite to Sadie for tea, chat and escape from the evenings dose of midges. He seemed exhausted so it was no surprise when Mia spotted a note outside Sadie the next morning. Poor Graham had suffered his third bad night of chest pains and had decided to leave early, head home and see his doctor.

Our departure was much later. Lunch though was a pleasant affair on the sun blessed seafront car park at Arisaig village after a pleasant ride through stunning scenery with the mountains on either side of the single track roads brooding omminously under their blanket of stubborn grey cloud.

Two days of glorious sunshine have now been enjoyed at a campsite right at the end of the road leading to 'Back of Keppoch'. We are parked next to the silver and pink sanded beach amid, and to the delight of the girls, coves, rock pools, clear water, and safe paddling. In short a children's paradise. Canoe has been inflated and the girls plus the neighboring vans two girls have all 'had goes'. I have even managed a good paddle around some of the little rocky islands that eventually become part of the main beach as the tide recedes.

A delightful spot and to be recommended. The views alone are five star. They really do reinforce my love of Scotland. When the sun shines there is quite simply no place more beautiful.

Tomorrow we head back and there will be a tinge of sadness for me. As I headed north from Salisbury I had mixed feelings about 'having' the grandchildren. Bit of grumpy old pensioner syndrome I guess. Well; how that has changed eh!  They have all been different but each one a delight and without doubt they have given me far more unexpected pleasure and joy than I deserve. Kate, I know would have loved this time with every fibre of her being. I've said it before and I make no excuse for repeating it. I am just so privileged to be living this way.

So thanks to all my grandchildren, OH! And thanks to Dad Chris too. You were also fun to have aboard and that eggy bread for breakfast was yummy!