Whizzing down hills.

"Guess we'll stay another day then eh Tanya".

Well why would'nt we!

A large crane was going to be blocking any exit from the very adequate front driveway of my Sister in Law's new house in charming 'Oxenhope,' Yorkshire Dales. Plus; I was informed, her sister and husband were coming round for dinner and I was invited. The menu was; pork sausage and sweet potato mash accompanied by Yorkshire puddings followed by fruit crumble and custard. It did not take long for my one remaining brain cell to decide option one, stay put, was the correct one.

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in 'Oxenhope' and were well orientated after some lovely walks into the hills above the village, ably led, I have to add, by my Sis in Law and pint sized Vita the doggy. I think Tanya enjoyed the company.

When finally I did leave 'Oxenhope' my plan to head straight to East Kilbride got hijacked as well but this time not by a crane. 'Aysgarth Falls' which were still in the Yorkshire Dales, plus the beautiful weather fetched me down off the main road for a break which included a pleasant walk to the waterfalls. Well worth it too. Over millenia the tumbling waters have carved the alternate layers of soft and hard rock into approximately half a mile of stepped falls. There are good viewpoints at the most spectacular places.

The Yorkshire Dales National Park tourist office also informed me of a five pound a night park up in the village which was very nice, very quiet and overlooking the attractive and substantial 'Aysgarth church'. We did not leave until later the next day as, taking advantage of the continuing good weather, we set off for an early morning  hike to the remarkably well preserved 'Castle Bolton'. I could not verify the 'well preserved' label as far as the interior went as once again we were confronted with my favourite sign: 'No Dogs'. Once again annoying but in this case merely a minor irritation compared to the wonderfully sensual experience of walking barefoot in warm sunshine through Yorkshires gloriously silky soft green grass 'Wennslydale' meadows.

After all that strenuous hiking and sole of the feet sensuality I decided there was still enough day left for a couple hours of travelling. 

Hmmmm! Guess I was more tired than I thought. I quickly developed an irritating headache which fortunately was quickly relieved as we unexpectedly dropped onto a quiet but popular picnic/parking spot. I was really grateful and quietly voiced my thanks to 'them wot grants such benevolence'. Kettle was soon whistling away merrily ready to make a much needed cuppa.

The parking/picnic spot turned out to be on the 'Waskerly Way', an old railway serving the local, and long gone, lead mines and now a designated cycle/pedestrian path. It starts in 'Consett' then traverses high moorland before dropping steeply down to 'Stanhope'. I believe it is also part of the coast to coast High North Pennine Way.

I know it drops steeply down to Stanhope as bike came out early the next morning, just like the sun. Off Tanya and I pedalled for a proposed one hour 'before breakfast' bike ride. 

Hah! 

When presented with such gently upward sloping bike track where you almost salivate with anticipation of the return downhill reward. Well, you just keep on going do you not? This was high moorland bathed in bright warm sunshine with no wind and views to die for. In Northern England or Scotland such days are counted on less than one hand. They are days to be treasured and enjoyed to the full.

There was a cafe at the top where along with my buttered toast (shared with Tanya) and cup of tea I was informed.

"Stanhope. Yes, just two minutes down the hill mate".

Wow! What a two minutes that was. Whizzing down the main roadway on the steepest of steep hills at incredible speed and very quickly arriving in pretty little Stanhope with its fossilized tree, shady riverside walk and pretty ford.

Ahh! yes, I see what you're thinking and you're quite right!

I have to get back up that steepest of steep hill don't I!!

The enjoyable bit, the luxury if you like, was I was in no hurry. I had time, an abundance of time if you like. The day was warm and sunny with the weather forecast indicating no change and I was feeling good too. One and a half hours it took of pushing the bike with Tanya walking alongside sniffing out the dozens of Rabbit holes. But you know it was not too bad. We whizzed down the main road at incredible speed but walked our way slowly and pleasurably back up the old railway line. A rather pleasant ninety minutes with frequent stops to admire the views and delve into the goodies I'd bought at the Stanhope Co-op.

Oh! And don't forget. Once at the top we had that long delicious downward sloping return track all the way back to Sadie. This was by now mid afternoon and a stiff breeze was blowing in our favour. The pleasure was enhanced indeed as we whizzed effortlessly by droves of upward slogging cyclists now having to fight the wind as well as the slope.

An absolute WOW of a day.

As I write this from tonight's perch overlooking a dull, damp, grey and cloud covered 'Meggets resevoir' here in the Scottish borders I am just soooo glad we took full advantage of the outstandingly beautiful weather. We called into 'Samye Ling' Buddhist Centre earlier for some meditative reflection upon my good fortune and good health during this last year. Hopefully I thought the right thoughts and maybe, just maybe there will be a couple more sunny days to come for my stay in beautiful and vibrant Scotland.

I do hope so.

Stuckness & Muckspreaders

There I was down on my knees hands clasping small spade and digging away at Sadie's nearly buried rear wheels. Yes. Sadie's rear end was well and truly stuck in soft sand. Don't ask me how it happened as all I know is that one minute I was heading for a nice grass covered parking spot. Next thing I knew there was crunching, ominous grinding, and a heart-stopping shuddering finality. Sadie, with stalled engine and impeccable timing uttered the immortal words; 

"We gotta problem Houston!"

This undignified and unceremonious arrival at Irelands Rosslare ferry port was deeply embarrassing and humbling; presenting as it did, a highly entertaining spectacle for all the other safely parked up motorhomes. As I knelt there digging away help was proffered by one of the English motorhomers as he dropped a few extra stones into the trench I was excavating. This trench would hopefully, and if all went according to plan,  facilitate Sadie's return to solid ground.

Then salvation. Or rather the very generous action by the one and only German motorhomer also parked up. He spoke little English but his actions said it all. Ropes were produced and while I secured them to Sadie he manoeuvred his motorhome into position and with very little effort tugged me free. I was so grateful that next day when we were all on the ferry I made a bee line for the shop, searched my rescuer out and presented him plus wife with a big luxurious, and bloody expensive, box of choccy's.

There is another side to this story. A quirky side which may be scorned by some but well understood and accepted by others. Before arriving at Rosslare Ferry port I had turned off the main road for a rest. I parked just outside a small village by a beautiful and well cared for grotto dedicated to Mary, Ave Maria, Gaia or whomsoever. For me, such grottos are places of powerful energy and are to be respected.

I was tired, I was parked right by the road and by the grotto, I wanted a cup of tea so I did not, or could not be bothered to kneel for a moment and pay due respect. Hmmmm! I should have known better. Approximately two hours later where was I? You've got it ...... on my knees humbly shoveling my way out of acute embarrasment.
............

On my way South East towards Salisbury I visited Ray & Edwina in their snugly sheltered ground floor apartment in Kington. Ray is now ninety one and my X father in law. He still drives and they had returned only the day before from a few days in Somerset. Not bad eh! I guess I have a few years of happy wandering curiosity to go yet. Not sure how long Sadie will hold up though. Fingers crossed please for next weeks annual service and MOT.

I was also warmly welcomed, always such a privilege for me, as I called on two loyal customers from my many years of agricultural involvement. The first is now retired and slightly bemused as to the dismantling and changing by his son of all the years of hard work he put into building up a successful farming business. As he and his wife pragmatically indicated though. 'We are well away from it all, in a beautiful home and enjoying the ripening fruit of a long happy marriage'. A warming statement and I guess you can't ask for much more.

Frocester Court is very different. Eddie Price (call him up on Google and read the Telegraph Obituary) and his sons ran a traditional family farm and his sons still do to this day. It is that very word 'traditional' with perhaps the addition of 'intelligent and solid family management' which enables survival for them in the forever difficult and erratic agricultural marketplace. For example; milk costs around twenty eight pence per litre to produce. They, at present sell milk at fifteen pence a litre from their dairy with no other choices available.

"Bearing that in mind it's a good job we bought that galvanised rotary muckspreader off you twenty years ago. It is still going strong". Said eldest son  Richard as we walked over to it.

This was amazing and I looked around it, muck covered as it was. Sure enough it was in remarkably good condition. To those of you sensible enough to have never had anything to do with farming this will of course mean little. But let me assure you that muck and metal are the bitterest of enemies. Muck always comes out the winner and usually pummells shiny new muckspreaders into rusting abandoned hulks within eight or nine years. To see this machine still working away after twenty years completely justified the extra money spent when originally purchased.

I was reminded of another 'muckspreader' story as we continued our walk in glorious sunshine around the farm. This story comes from life after agriculture when I was working in Mental Health Wellbeing as a Counsellor.

I for several years was part of a team offering Support to employees of well known banks and finance houses in the City of London. 

"Hmmmmph! They don't need support". I hear you say. 

My take on it, having been a witness just behind the front line as it were; is that had sufficient correct employee support been in place the subsequent banking disasters may well not have happened. These employees were highly paid there is no doubt about that. They were also under intolerable and criminal pressure to perform regardless.

At the time I was working over the phone with an extremely highly paid fund manager from a top tier bank. Someone that in my agricultural life would have been up there with the Gods. As I listened attentively a mischievous thought popped into my head and gained memorable dominance for a few seconds.

"I wonder if this multi squillion pound earner knows his current telephone therapist is a guy who used to sell muckspreaders".

I am pleased to report this particular story does have a happy ending. Not all of them did unfortunately. My client slowly, over several weeks, withdrew from the yawning chasm of annihilation into reconciliation and repair of shattered work and family ideals.

One up for muckspreaders eh!

Chaotic Kaden

There is a strong wind blowing from the South East tonight. Here, just above the high tide line on the 'Strand' tidal flats half a mile East of 'Castlegregory' we are rather exposed to it. Sadie though, in her many travels has weathered far more than this without even a blink of her headlights so this time, no problem at all. All is well down here in this beautiful part of Co Kerry, Ireland, which by the way, is right on 'The Wild Atlantic Way'. Tanya, Sadie and I are parked down here because Keith and Justine have holidaymakers in their holiday Bungalow. I am usually parked up in front of it but am quite happy to move down here as and when required.

I shall though, miss the early morning visit from my two year old grandson. I've renamed him Chaotic Kaden which perhaps paints a picture for you of his welcome and enjoyable visits.

"Kaden Feed Tanya Grampy Steve."

These are usually the first words I hear as his little feet clomp along the decking to Sadie's open door. Feeding Tanya comprises of him getting one of my small dishes out ready for when I lift the bag of doggy biscuits down. Sure enough he does help and a few of the biscuits do make it to Tanya's bowl. Mainly though the task is to pick out the tiny yellow biscuits, which he has taken a liking to, which are then deposited in his dish.

"Raisins Grampy Steve." 

This from upturned little face, usually with runny nose, signifies the next stage. As dish is held up ready raisins are added and I deftly remove all bar two yellow doggy biscuits. This remaining couple add a nice touch of colour to the raisins with so far no doggy behaviour being observed in Master Kaden.

The other familiar Kaden statement is; "Want go in Grampy big bussy." But what is this? There is now competition. Keith's beloved forty two year old classic Volkswagon T2 camper van is once again up and running after the latest round of repairs by Campervan John. The salty sea air of the Atlantic protruding 'Dingle' peninsular is perhaps not the best place to keep rust at bay for this classic old lady. She is though, much loved and cherished by Keith, Justine and of course Kaden. This extremely busy couple plus bright and energetic two year old run a popular seaside bits and pieces shop and launderette. It is long hours and seven days a week of hard exhausting slog. During the Summer; this classic old lady allows holiday albeit just an hour grabbed here and there at the local beach. May her rust slow down, her wheels turn effortlessly and her engine tick smoothly for a little while longer.

When down here I help out where I can which so far has mainly been watching Chaotic Kaden. Yesterday however; was different. With bag full of envelopes and ballot papers I trudged the streets of Castlegregory delivering door to door ready for the forthcoming Community Council elections. Keith and Justine are not directly involved but as I know only too well from my own past experience. When it comes to local community, council or anything voluntary, people on the ground actually doing stuff are extremely hard to find. It always boils down to a mere handful, and very often the same handful over and over again. Apathy, It seems is a sad, true and unfortunate by product of democracy.

Cleggy's & a Wedding.

"Two hours eh" I said to the receptionist. 

"Guess I had better wait then. Sign me in." I continued, sighing resignedly.

A form was duly completed, identification produced and I was in. The Salisbury 24/7 NHS drop in clinic now had me on its books and in its clutches.

Such is the situation on a Bank Holiday Saturday in the UK when faced with a bad cleggy (Horsefly) bite that was alarmingly and rapidly swelling and red lining up my arm toward my armpit. To be truthful I am not sure I would have noticed but Barbara's sharp eyes and previous bad experience with her son who displayed similar was enough for me to place bum on bike seat and transport myself to the clinic.

France and the Cherbourg ferry terminal were several days behind. Salisbury plus all the razzamatazz surrounding preparations for my brother Richards daughters wedding were in full swing. Barbara had flown down from Scotland to join me and had noticed my 'affliction' over a leisurely breakfast on this, the day before the wedding. Well it would be wouldn't it.

Think about it. I travel the length and breadth of three European countries facing the onslaught of all those foreign speaking, stinging and eating beasties only to be floored by a standard model British blood sucking cleggy. A cleggy whose timing was perfection itself with these alarmingly visual symptoms manifesting on the day before I am due to don my best (and ironed) finery to appear fit happy and healthy in front of Bride and Groom. Ho Hum eh!!
- - - -
I'm happy to report Cleggy bite became a non issue and that a wonderful day was had by all as Ruth Woodward willingly and beautifully wedded Chris. Mr and Mrs Larkin are now enjoying Greek sunshine while we are left pleasurably reflecting upon a memorable day.
- - - -
Ireland next and a visit to my son and his family across in Co Kerry. Sadie and Tanya have both been scrubbed clean. Ferry is booked. I've fresh books on my kindle and a new Tibetan Flute meditation CD downloaded to my phone. What more could one ask or want! We're ready to roll tomorrow morning.

OH!! Fridge is empty. First call .... Tesco!!

Thunder, elections & pornography.

Claps of thunder had Tanya trembling with fear at the foot of the bed. The thunder rumbling round the mountains was getting closer and, under protest, had me out of my warm bed and stumbling outside. Half awake I stuffed our folding table and chairs underneath Sadie before the inevitable rain storm soaked them. As I clambered back into Sadie I took pity on Tanya and deposited her between the now awakened Barbara and myself. I lay back on comfy pillows and listened as the thunderstorm passed overhead hammering Sadie's roof with rain. As the storm abated and the roof hammering quietened I chuckled to myself as twin snoring of dog and Barbara became audible and slowly lulled me back to my dreams.

I awoke later to a glorious sunshiny morning. Our third at this high and isolated flower strewn meadow here in the heart of Cathar Castle country between 'Davejean' and 'Dernacueillete'. I extricated myself carefully from the bed and the continuing hilarious snorty breathing of my two female companions.

I love early morning walks where sun has only just risen above horizon and where leaf and grass stalk stillness has not yet been disturbed by thermal breezes. Tanya too has a special bounciness on these morning walks. She was not missing this one either having timed her waking to coincide exactly with my exit from Sadie. We returned refreshed to a morning cup of tea with Barbara who was already sipping away at hers as the rising sun flooded our day with warmth and light.

The morning was 'doubly' good as we, via our smartphones, read of the amazing 2015 election results for the Scottish Nationalist Party. A complete landslide victory with all opposition virtually obliterated. A wonderful but intriguing result as it also became clear that similar had happened for Tories South of the border in England. The retired English couple we met later in the day on our travels agreed wholeheartedly that interesting times lay ahead.

We breakfasted and started to prepare for departure. I stepped out from Sadie's little room stark naked after my morning ablutions. This was no problem in such a beautiful high and lonely spot. However; as I stepped in front of our wide open doorway both Barbara and I, at the same time, became aware of an arm reaching out as if to knock on said open door. Attached to the arm was a frozen in shock young mans face with eyes wide open and on a similar level to my rather close full frontal exposure. Thankfully the older female with him was a good few paces behind. I executed a quick sideways move behind the kitchen unit saving her from an instant pornographic shock induced mental aberration.

The young mans arm then shakily delivered 'Watchtower' as the older female caught up with him. I am truly not joking here. In the middle of a lonely rural 'Pyrenees Orientales' flowering meadow in France. Plus; in a place where for two whole days we had seen nobody, Jehovahs Witnesses knocked on our door and handed over their religious blurb, written incidentally in English. Barbara and I discussed the grave situation later that morning. We both agreed it was such a shame for that poor young man. Let us hope that a long term combination of therapy and prayer assists him back to full recovery.

.......
Bye bye Barbara. Delivered safely to Tolouse airport just a few hours ago. We have enjoyed a wonderful time together with parting being not a sad affair at all. We both agree our way of sharing time with each other is a win win situation. Long may it continue and see you in a couple of weeks Barbara at the family wedding.

Now: suppose I'd better do a bit of pointy North type of travel now if I am to be at said family occasion too.

Nougat & Water tank

Barbara's face was a picture. It moved as if to speak but was unable to do so. Finally she came to halt in front of me holding up a posh paper bag. She then, with ashen white face said: 

"Sixty five Euros, the Nougat cost sixty five Euros!"

"Whaat!" I exclaimed.

The day was warm and sunny. We were in good mood and earlier I had enjoyed my first sea swim of this trip in the cold but gentle sea at 'St's Marie sur mer' on the southern extremity of the 'Camargue'. The crowded tourist filled streets of 'St's Marie' had lulled us into that vulnerable and barriers down holiday feeling so beloved by tourists and sharp witted tourist shop owners alike. The delicious display of local traditionally made nut and honey Nougat plus the charming sales skill of the owner/producer took us in completely. Blithely we said "oui, oui" to all that was offered.  

The sixty five Euro Nougat is now a standing joke and thankfully the colour has returned to Barbara's face as well.

Oh! The Nougat is delicious too.
............
"Errr Steve, I've got wet feet again." 

Said Barbara as we returned to Sadie from our very pleasant day out wandering the tourist hot spot streets of 'Carcasonne, la Cite'. Nougat and Chocolate shops had been successfully avoided helped by an enjoyable meal of delicious 'Croc madame plus chips'. Oh! and a direct hit by a pigeon on Barbara's freshly washed stripy top. Revenge I am sure for Tanya's skill at clearing said pigeons from the floor around the restaurant tables.

The wet feet indicated a very wet floor in Sadie which in turn indicated a leak from our on board water storage tank. The 'again' bit was due to the same thing happening a few days previous which we thought we had solved.

"Damm" I muttered seeing ahead of me the stripping down of Sadie's interior in order for me to once again access and investigate the water tank. We headed away from 'Carcasonne' and perched ourselves amid Thyme scented countryside overlooking the high wild country south of us in this the 'Pyrenese-Orientales' region of France.

"Got it" I exclaimed with relief as a water fitting collapsed in my hand during the probing and testing of all water leak possibilities. Repair, re-assembly and replacing of furniture followed before a very welcome order was issued by first officer Barbara.  

"Now sit down while I get our tea". Needless to say I obeyed.
........
Waking up with sun streaming through Sadie's windows; with  thyme scented warm air caressing the nose; with no set agenda for the day and bird song as the only sound. It is just such luxury. Then to have eyes massaged with a view of vineyards stretching away then rising in the distance of the 'Haut Languedoc' area. Well; Such magic times are the gems peppering my wandering lifestyle. To share such a magic morning with my much loved companion Barbara is privilege indeed. There was even icing on the cake. The water tank seemed to be cured of its leak and floor was drying out well in the increasing warmth of the day.

Mind you; Universe did have one more mischievous water tank trick to play out. On our slow and leisurely way through the gorgeously quiet French country lanes to 'La Grasse Abbey' we stopped for lunch on the edge of a vineyard by a small brook. Kettle was produced and tap turned on to fill it. Water pump ground into action but no water came gushing forth. Barbara looked at me and I looked at her. In unison we groaned:  

"Oh no what now!"  

A half strip out of the bench seat housing our water tank was undertaken followed by a peering once again into its depths. Thankfully this time Universe was in good mood, having had his/her previous water tank chuckle at our expense. A simple solution was provided. A rubber washer, clearly visible, was blocking the suction pipe. An unseen left over from the previous nights repair which was quickly fished out. Water  again gushed forth. Lunch was enjoyed and our journey to some of this regions stunning Cathar castles resumed.

Barbara & Provence

Number 94 bus and 'Nice' airport shuttle bus deposited me safely at terminal two, arrivals. Barbara with wheelie bag and big smile soon walked through the arrivals door from her Easy Jet flight from Edinburgh. We together reverse negotiated the buses returning to 'Cagne sur Mer' where a snug, and very quiet, campsite safely housed Sadie and Tanya. Quiet campsite housed us for one more day as Barbara settled in. Part of 'settling' included a very enjoyable lunch at one of the 'Chateux Grimald' cafes amid the old part of 'Cagne sur Mer.'

Next day saw us on our way. I was keen to move away from the hustle and bustle of the highly populated 'Cote d'Azur'. Sure enough as we headed up 'Gorge de loup' it felt good to be once again on the move upon the less busy and well maintained French roads. With of course, sitting alongside me sharing Tanya's seat, the added bonus of a much loved travelling companion.

'Moustier St Marie' is where we are at present. A gorgeous medieval village tucked right into the dramatic cliffs containing the stunning 'Gorge de Verdon'. Sun is shining, tea is being prepared and let me tell you. There is not much wrong with the world right now.
................
Pig again. This time however; not a scary scenario. Far from it. These were a rare breed of 'Hungarian Mangalica' piggy's. Big woolly floppy eared beasties with squealing stripy piglets running around mum who snuffled her way about the large orchard enclosure. Barbara and I, plus Tanya of course, were on a morning walk around the beautiful village of 'Maubec' here in the 'Luberon valley' area of Provence. We stopped to watch these piggies and to read how they were near extinction before conservation and good marketing of their highly valued, and rich in Omega 3, meat products saved them.

The plan, after our walk was to move on, find a supermarket, which we did, and travel to 'Arles', which we did'nt. Instead we returned to 'Oppede de Vieux' just along from vineyard surrounded 'Maubec'. 'Oppede' is one of many 'perched on a hilltop' villages in this area. In medieval days it was fully populated but alas it's steep narrow cobbled streets now wind through ivy covered ruins. Slowly though, as artists and the wealthy restore and live in what can only be described as a stunning and unspoilt location, it is coming back to life.

What a treat for us to pay a mere five Euros for the car park and be told by the attendant we were very welcome  to stay the night.

"J'adore la France". Oops, sorry I have to correct that .... "Nous adorons la France".

Birthday boy got 'painfully' moved on

"Wow!  What a view". I exclaimed pulling Sadie into a narrow precarious cliff hugging and stone blocked old quarry entrance. I clambered to the top of a small rise of ground to take in the breathtaking view out over 'Massa', 'Carrara', the port of 'La Spezia' on the blue Mediterranean which was our destination. Just behind us were the tunnels through the solid snow covered peaks and their deep river gorges that had provided the narrow twisty road we had just negotiated from 'Castelnuovo di Garfanga'.

The mountain wind was icily cutting as I turned to descend my viewpoint and gain the warmth of Sadie. Next thing I knew I was screaming obscenities to the heavens while rolling on the ground clutching at what surely must be a broken ankle. The pain was excruciating but behind that pain and behind the coping mechanism of voluminous obscenities I, with utter despair, knew clearly what had just transpired. My right foot had rolled right over and once again ripped muscle and tendon to shreds. I say once again as unfortunately my life has been regularly punctuated with such painful incidents rendering my ankles weak and vulnerable.

The obscenities finally stopped echoing round the mountains and the pain eased. I managed to limp across and haul myself into Sadies warmth. I sat for a while recovering from the shock and assessing the situation. Everything moved as it should albeit painfully and with limited mobility. 

"Nothing broken then". I muttered to Tanya and "Happy bloody birthday Steve" 

I sarcastically said as I gingerly worked Witch-Hazel cream into the now grotesquely swollen and throbbing ankle. Yes; this was April 7. My 67th birthday.

My biggest worry was driving. We were at the top of a high mountain pass and in front of three and a half ton Sadie lay an hour of steep downhill, second gear only, zig zag narrow hairpin roads. Regular right foot brake operation was going to be required. 

"Am I gonna manage it"? I thought to myself. 

Happily the downward gradient of the road was kind to us. Sadie's slow but safe second gear adequately held momentum at a level requiring only occasional light braking. Even so I was wincing with pain well before our rendezvous for the night.

"Got to stop Tan, this is hurting and starting to get dangerous"

We were thankfully on the flatter but busier coastal strip by then with eyes peeled left and right for a suitable bolt hole for the night.

"That's it, that'll do, winker on, hang a left and we're in".

A nearly empty parking area adjacent a grassy field and communal area. Phew! was I glad to stop, make a cup of tea, down a couple of paracetamol and put my foot up to rest. Which is exactly what I did for about an hour till Mr Carabineri poked his head in the open door and said.  

"You no stay here. You no camp, you go!"

I did, with a masterful limping demonstration and best 'poor me' pitiful painful facial expression put forward my case for staying put. This however; only elicited the same few monosyllabic English statements in louder voice and with sterner face. This repeat was accompanied by jacketed Carabineri arm firmly pointing to anywhere else but where we were.

I had no choice but to pack up and go. Which within ten minutes is exactly what I did. Such is the flexibility of a motorhome. I flicked on Mrs Sat nav again and let her lead us the remaining thirty kilometres to our original destination, a Sosta (motorhome parking area) listed in my book at 'Porto Venere'.

This, according to a lovely Italian guy at 'Castlenuovo' was a must see place right out at the point on the far side of 'La Spezia' at the Southern end of the highly popular area known as 'Cinque Terre'. (pronounce - 'chingwaterra') He backed up his enthusiastic insistence with smart phone pictures of his previous days visit with family friends and local priest. It did look inviting.

The journey was relatively easy. I'd had an hours rest and the paracetamol had kicked in reducing the pain. Good old Mrs Sat nav took us right to the spot, a pleasant grassy area above 'Porto Venere'. This in itself was a relief as I've discovered that having a book listing Italian motorhome parking areas and sites is no guarantee they actually exist. This time though it was real. We quickly settled in, conjured up eats and with a 'Phew! Some Birthday', I gratefully placed my throbbing and swollen excuse for an ankle up high for a well earned rest.

We've remained here for two days. There is a parking ticket machine which requires €12.00 in coins for a twenty four hour stay. Quite reasonable but no good if you only have paper money.  

"Need to go down to the port, have a meal and get some cash eh Tan".

So off we go, limping well and leaning heavily on walking pole. The task? To get to the bus stop and board the free shuttle bus down to 'Porto Venere' itself. Now remember Italy is different. The notice I'd espied earlier indicating said shuttle bus runs hourly April to April is, to put it bluntly, a wee fib. We waited for some time before an English speaking Italian lady explained, as though it was obvious. 

"Oh no! Bus only run for Easter in April". Well; how silly of me not being able to infer such 'obviousity' from the big clearly written A4 size notice saying it ran hourly April to April.

We did get our meal and we did get our coinage. We bannister rail and walking poled our way down hundreds of steps to a sea front restaurant (expensive!) then very slowly limped back to Sadie via the hairpin roadway which also involved doing battle with huge German, Swiss and Italian tourist coaches. We made it though and meter was duly fed. Plus I will admit 'Porto Venere' is a very pretty seaside destination. As the rough guide says though. Don't do it July/August unless you love crowds and gridlocked traffic.

Ankle? I hear you ask: Black and blue with ugly yellow patches and limping will be standard for a couple of weeks. Apart from that everything is rosy.

Extortion in Tuscany!!

"Twenty Euros". I sputtered unable to contain my shock at this extortionate price for a twenty four hour stopover on a large tarmac bus park between busy roads and a railway. I grumpily paid up. It was late and I knew of no alternative within sensible bike/walk distance of this the Italian city of 'Siena'.

"They b****y well know how to rip off the tourist do these Italians". 

I muttered as I walked across to Sadie, ticket in hand which I was to; 

'Window, must, must be in window. Ticket, window. Understand. In window, ticket!'  

Well; ticket IS in window and we are comfortably settled in for the night. Tomorrow we will be off sharp for a day out in well preserved medieval 'Siena'. We'll be away by five fifteen though, when my window mounted ticket expires. There is no way I'm parting with another extortionate fee. We will head back out into the  countryside where I feel much happier, don't get ripped off every five minutes and there are plenty of secluded wild spots where Tanya is free to roam.

We have just spent one such night of meditative seclusion by a rushing mountain stream amid the as yet unleafed Beech forest  South of  'Volterra'. We were by a closed, deserted and vandalized Spa hotel. An English speaking lady encountered on our before breakfast walk, and coincidently the only person we saw while their, told us the hotel's warm sulphuric spa water dried up fifteen years ago. The whole complex closed shortly after. A beautiful secluded location with the lower entrance by the locked and bramble covered gate making a perfect spot for us to camp. Sadie was treated to a clear sparkling mountain stream wash while we were there. I had to wade in to the gurgling torrent to fill the buckets. That water was icy icy cold. No swimming in that I thought to myself as ankles and calves thawed out. Which they soon did as I reclined in comfy chair, soaked up the warm sunshine and admired my handiwork, a sparkling white as opposed to 'road use brown' Sadie.
...........
'Siena'.

"It's a walled hilltop city". I expounded to Tanya. "With steep hills, loadsa steps, narrow alleyways and multi directional mad scooter mounted Italians weaving between aimlessly wandering tourists. Guess we'll leave the bike and walk eh Tan".

My summing up proved correct with walking granting a rewarding day in a stunning city under warm blue skies. Again I took few photographs as www.land will have them all if you wish to see more. The 'Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta' built with alternate layers of black and white stone was awesome. You need tickets and no dogs to see the inside but I did hold open the guided tour exit door for a while till the security guy very politely showed me it was on springs and was meant to swing shut to stop people with dogs seeing inside which I thought was really nice of him. Such a grasped at peep was enough though. Truly stunning.

'Il Campo' is the heart of the city and everything radiates out from its large semi circular sloping open plaza. All the touristy shops carry posters and pictures of the famous bareback horse racing festival which takes place every August in this 'Campo'. I 'barebacked' a restaurant chair and enjoyed a lovely meal in one of the small squares adjoining. Coffee was long lingered over as numerous people watching cameos unfolded second by second around us. A most agreeable pastime invariably brought to a premature halt by Madame Tanya becoming bored once she has scoffed the little biscuit often presented with the 'I've got a liking for it now' continental small cup expresso coffee.
..........
Easter Saturday today. We are snug in 'Vinci', birthplace of the great Leonardo da Vinci. We are also being subject to a very British bank holiday phenomena. Heavy and persistent rain. Never mind, according to weatheronline.com the sunshine is due back in a couple of days.

We did have warm blue sky sun yesterday and thrilled to a second and third gear journey over the high and hilly minor roads/tracks of the 'Chianti' wine producing region here in Tuscany. That was till the afternoon when I made a mistake on a roundabout. Mrs sat nav Navigator kindly re-routed us through urban industrial 'Firenze' and 'Prato' before finally depositing us in a scrubby car park right behind a Carabinero (military police) training establishment in 'Pistoia' which; was not where I had expected us to be.

I could not quite understand how this happened. I thought we were headed for 'Vinci'. On checking later I discovered Numpty here had only gone and entered the wrong sat nav coordinates without following up with visual map check as to the correct destination. Memo to self; 'Do check where we're going next time Steve, and best do it before setting off eh ... there's a good boy!' The accompanying self administered (but gentle) wrist slap hopefully will jog my tired and lonely single remaining brain cell into due compliance.

Ho Hum!

Italy continued & ... Hmmmm!

The rough guide waxes lyrically and enthusiastically about the great Italian painters, the historical sites, the museums, the churches etc etc, but nowhere do I find  mention of the sheer joy to be had in simply walking mountainous medieval mule tracks steeply winding their way through the Olive groves between 'Zucarello' by it's rushing river, and the much higher village of 'Vesercio'.

'San Remo' was behind us as we drove Eastwards along the slightly less busy Italian Riviera coastal strip. A wonderful drive but by the time I had reached 'Albenga' I'd had enough of the, 'slightly less busy', the nowhere to park and of marina after marina full of white shiny and jingly mast luxury floating motorhomes nee yachts.

So we hung a left, quickly stopped at 'Freshco' for a warm just baked €1.00 Panini before heading inland for a quiet lunch stopover. That's how we found 'Zucarella' with its large level parking area where no one has bothered us one bit these last two nights.

The village is long, narrow, medieval and occupies one bank of the river while the main road tarmacs its way by on the other. The village is a grid of tiny narrow cobbled streets and stone arches with one steeply leading ever upwards, out of the village to the 'Castello' on a prominent mount where I gazed down almost vertically upon Sadie's roof way below in the car park.

I was delighted with our lunch stop find, our exploration of the village and especially our stiff walk up to the Castello. Delighted as I felt good with no worrying aches or pains from the chesticle area where, as you know I have been having slight concern of late.

The weather was forecast to return to wet and cold again so next day we took advantage of the dry but cloudy day and set off to walk up to the next village 'Vesercio'. To cut a long story short we made it. A three and a half hour circular steep ascent/descent walk. Tanya and I were both pretty exhausted and wet due to the forecasted rain soaking us during our last half hours walking. It was a warm, dry and welcome return to Sadie where once  again I was 'over the moon' delighted with what we had achieved. I do not think in January, as we commenced this years trip, such a walk would have been possible. Back then I got very tired after only short flat walks. Fingers crossed for continuation of good fortune eh:
..........

Italy .... Hmmmmm!
The Italians themselves are lovely. So friendly and helpful. Maybe they have to be to assist everyone else through 'different, busy and Hmmmm!'

Yesterday I followed Mrs 'Navigator' sat nav (yes, a different lady & very good she is too) to a garage listed as a supplier of GPL gas. One of my cylinders was empty. Mrs sat nav was within one hundred yards of being spot on but it was not a garage as such but a specific GPL filling station. This was located immediately behind another big garage on a side street entered another half a kilometer further on. It is easy for me to say that, now I know; but it took me nearly two hours to find. I kept asking around which is no easy task on the outskirts of 'Genoa', in a large motorhome, where not a soul speaks English. Anyway my frustration, possibly desperation, must have been apparent as finally a kind lady in a little yellow Panda indicated I was to follow her. She took me right to the spot and then drove off with a smile and cheery wave without giving me the time to thank her. Such generosity and helpfulness from her plus all the others who before they launched into copious instructions and directions in rapidly spoken Genoese Italian had shouted to all and sundry, "Heya! Inglesa.Chiunque parlare inglese?" The answer of course was invariably no except for my 'Ave Maria" (big culture here) lady in her yellow Fiat Panda who did know a few English words.

Then the strangest thing. Gas top up was successful and I drove out onto the narrow one way side street to be faced with a low 2.35m bridge sign. This had the potentiality of being a serious problem seeing as Sadie is 3.00m high. I had no alternative but to continue and to my huge relief we sailed under the bridge with plenty of room to spare. Just before the bridge I once again noticed another large prominent 2.35m warning sign affixed to the apex of the bridge arc. I successfully criss-crossed the same railway line and its low bridges twice more before we headed out onto a quiet countryside lane and a safe spot for the night.

A strange, different but rewarding day.
..........
I'd nearly, very nearly in fact, given up on Italy. The wet dull weather was not helping. Lack of coastal area camp spots plus the ridiculous price wanted by some campsites were all starting to irk me. I've damaged Sadie too. To be fair that is not Italy but rather me playing 4x4 again and getting my come uppance. Thankfully it is not serious, just fibreglass rear skirting split and nudged slightly out of place.

Soooo .... all in all Italy was not turning out to be the best for my strange but particular way of life ..... until today that is. Today has finally yielded an Italy more in keeping with ... 'wot I want'.

'Pisa', complete with leaning tower, warm sunshine and a safe and sensibly priced and located motorhome stopover. Well! Could one ask for more? Bike was very soon out and off we went to join the throngs of tourists (Goodness knows what it must be like in high season) As usual there was no going into the tower or up the Doumo (Cathederal) as doggies are no go. Even so impressive is the correct adjective to use. You also cannot stop that daft little voice in your head from saying, "Gosh it's just like it is in all those pictures".

Meanwhile: watching contorted tourists, mainly of Eastern origin, being photographed holding out their palms to appear as though they are propping the tower up in front of equally contorted and gesticulating camera and mobile phone wielders. Well; such viewing is equal to, if not better than, an expensive tour of the great treasures inside these beautiful buildings paid for by the way, and to quote the tourist blurb; 'the sacking and pillage of Palermo and its immense wealth'.

Weather looks better for the next week. Ok then! I'll stay a little longer.
"C'mon Tan. We'll go do some more Bike exploring in this Tuscan open air rich archeological gem stone of an area".

A pig & Italy.

"TANYA QUICK, COME HERE, MOVE, IT'S A DAMM PIG!! 

A big wild boar type pig it was too. I tell you it was some shock seeing this thing lumbering out from the pitch black of the night behind the wheelie bins and into the dim light of the few and far between street lights. My senses did not immediately register this unrecognisable moving area of blackness as someting dangerous. As my adrenalin kicked in pig had it's head down and was picking up speed towards Tanya who was blithely heading piggy direction thinking this was a new doggy pal.

Thankfully the combination of loud panicky voice along with sight of me sprinting away down the road did the trick and she sensibly joined me in this new game of 'let's run away from big black hairy tusky piggy thing'. Pig ran out into the road but then decided what was behind the wheelie bins offered better prospects than one mere mortal human plus small dog. It stopped, sniffed around a bit and shuffled back into the unlit blackness behind the bins.

"Phew!" I muttered. "That, Tanya my girl, is as close as I want to come to a wild boar thank you very much. I think we'll just head back to Sadie now in case piggy is not alone". 

Note to self; take torch on next 'last Tanya pee before bed' walk!!

We were in my favorite safe, level but totally unlit parking area in 'Port Lligat', former home to the artist Salvador Dali. It is a place I love and know very well and always visit if I am entering or leaving Spain from its North Eastern corner. The 'Cap de Creus' ('Cadaque') area is wild, beautiful and unspoiled but only reachable by tortuous bendy mountain and cliff hugging coastal roads.

Warm and sunny it was too. Unlike the charming and pretty little hilltop village of 'Fox-Amphoux' in the French district of  'Provence' where at present it is wet, dull, misty and distinctly cool. On the way here we visited  'camping La Sousta' at the popular tourist spot of 'Pont du Gard' where, being down to my last shirt, we caught up with laundry etc. Popular spot it may be but wet cold early March equals campsite plus large impressive ancient Roman viaduct empty of tourist and locals alike.
.............
What a difference a few miles make. We are in Italy now, 'San Remo' to be exact. Sunny warm Italian Riviera. I have just watched from our very pleasant Italian Aire a gigronkus luxury yacht motor by. It is probably going to Monte Carlo, Nice or Cannes. All the marinas both here and on the French side had their due quota of these huge plastic 'I've got loadsa money' status symbols. We have spent the last couple of days negotiating our way through this very built up, busy and rather motorhome unfriendly Riviera coastal strip. I've decided it is not my favorite place but seeing is believing and there is no doubt about it; the area oozes of all that money can buy. Just a wee bit out of my league though. No photo's either. For starters there was never anywhere to park Sadie at the few viewing spots and secondly; Google or You-tube the French Riviera. Pointless pointing my phone/camera when every conceivable Riviera photo is already out there in www.com land.

Bike plus green Tanya bucket came out today and we cycled in the beautiful warm sunshine to 'San Remo' proper where we watched the world go by while enjoying a pleasant fishy lunch at one of the numerous restaurants over looking the Marina. Once again it was yours truly in summer gear of shorts and sandals while everybody else was in full winter gear, and, I have to say, very smart too as one would expect of Italians.

One observation which with all things considered goes with the territory of marina plus large plastic gin palaces. There did seem to be a lot of paunchy men of about my age and much older being accompanied by extremely smart young ladies. S'funny is'nt it. I mean I've got a plastic tub too. OK so it's not full of gin and doesn't have a pointy bit at the front but even so. At least there was one thing that got the attention of these 'young things'. My not so young lady travelling companion Tanya got plenty of fawning attention and admiring glances from these glamorous young fashion icons.

Visiting. Moving North. Trauma.

Well that has been the hottest day so far. Nine pm now and we've just returned from a balmy nocturnal walk. My clock cum tempature gauge tells me it is 22° outside. Snugly.

We are just south of 'Valencia'. A semi suburban beachside area bordering the 'Parc natural de l'abufera' which comprises various large lakes, rice growing paddy fields and lots of wildlife. (like migrating motorhomers .... lol) It has been a very busy Sunday with the Spanish out in force  enjoying this lovely warm day and beachside setting.

There are about twelve motorhomes here all wild parked with not a British number plate to be seen. French and German plus a smattering of Dutch.

I arrived yesterday after having spent the last week up in the hills at Lenny & Win's smallholding near 'Rugat'. They have a lovely villa within a terraced orchard which was eighty five percent complete when purchased last year. Lenny is now thoroughly and enjoyably immersing himself in the remaining projects. He and I walked around the land which comprises about four large curved hillside terraces planted with Plum and Almond trees. There were Rabbits galore running everywhere plus a regular wild pig or two nocturnally visiting and grubbing up the soft and fertile soil. They are besotted with their new home and managing well with solar powered electricity and 'delivered in' water. I helped Lenny with his ingenious system for collecting, filtering and storing rain run off water. As a bonus there is a really good local community and social life mainly comprised of ex pats. A lovely week with good company in a beautiful location.
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There is something very peaceful and deeply satisfying in doing nothing whatsoever except watching and hearing the continual roll of waves smashing into the soft rocky and eroding shallow cliff edge  about thirty yards from where we are parked. The feeling is warm, especially so as there is a warm and furry dog nestled in my arms. Transcendent too as all lights are off allowing the full silvery beauty of the clear strong moonlight illuminated scene to parade before us at Sadie's door.

This is 'Peniscola', to be exact, just south of the town on a coast hugging wild track. It is a popular holiday destination with a very attractive and touristy old town complete with fifteenth century fortifications.  It is North of 'Burriana' where, amid its maze like orange groves we have been for the last couple of days visiting Jurate (one of my brothers carers) and her family. Sergio, her Mexican husband cooked us all a truly wonderful, and not too 'hot hot', Mexican meal last night. A very pleasant evening out where Ricky, their eight month old Chihuaha took quite some time to settle down after having his territory invaded by a stranger with a furry black dog. Emily worked hard with her school taught English trying to persuade me to stay another day. No luck I'm afraid as I am keen now to move North toward France and hopefully Italy. We shall see.

............

Poor Tanya was once again in my arms for some TLC after being traumatized. It happened as I was cooking the evening meal. The damm smoke alarm went off. Tanya with a fearful and painful auditory passion hates the loud BEEEP....BEEEP  of the infernal but essential motorhome safety device.

Now timing, when cooking is critical, as I do like my food to be hot when it arrives on my plate. So I was stressed as I frantically flapped a towel around to encourage the offending smoky air to exit via the roof hatch rather than aimlessly wafting around the smoke alarm. A difficult task if, at the same time you are also flipping over nicely browning Tortilla and agitating an onion mushroom and green pepper stir fry. In such a delicately balanced situation the last thing you need is for the very small motorhome foot room space to be invaded by a traumatized dog seeking reassuring leg cuddles. I'm ashamed to admit it but I'm afraid her trauma doubled in intensity as she got serious verbal and foot abuse from me.

All is well that ends well though. She had her moonlight cuddle with plenty of re-assurance and treats and is now fast asleep sprawled in her bed on the turned around drivers seat. She looks to be a happy dog. I guess I'm a well fed doggy owner. It is a beautiful night in a stunning location. Yes, the words peaceful, satisfying and transcendent sum it up well.
____

Isolation & a sore paw

It is hard to describe where we are at present. A beautiful and very isolated spot. Maybe it is that very isolation and its accompanying twin, meditative solitude, I am finding hard to describe. I do know that I crave, love and regularly seek out 'alone-ness'. Often I am disappointed if I cannot find such places. Mindfulness within nothingness amid the 'everything-ness' of wilderness is, for me, a pre-requisite for fullness of being.  I promised that on this trip I would not disappear into such solitude and isolation of wilderness due to family and friends concern in respect of my heart grumblings. So far I feel we have done well on that score with nearly every night up to this point in time being spent in company of other Motorhomes. I will add however that even though I may have been in company that company was in some beautiful spots too. On the whole motorhomers are a respectful bunch where 'alone-ness' is concerned.

Yesterdays travels found us high in the agricultural and jumbled quarrying hinterland East of 'Murcia' and to the back of 'Alicante'. We were well away from the busy coastal strip. We were leisurely traversing small roads where, as per usual, no other motorhomes seem to travel. Cherry tree orchards are just now starting to colour the countryside with pink effervescent blossom while the vast dusty dry agricultural plain is dotted with mountain outcrops scarred by decades of slicing off and polishing up kitchen worktops and shiny granite floors.

Stopping for the night in such areas is never an issue. We choose a tiny local road and a suitable spot is soon presented. Sometimes it can be an abandoned crumbling Cortijo where if you look around you soon spy the smart new bungalow the former Cortijo occupier has promoted him/her/them selves to. This time though we came across a dis-used rail track with vehicular access to our spot where further travel is denied by locked stanchion. Only cyclists and walkers are permitted to continue.

Bike was soon off the rack and off we went down the slight gradient rail track and through five dark tunnels (Good job I took a torch!) We decided enough was enough just after a quite impressive viaduct. The cycle-walk back was easier than I thought and Tanya ran most of the way back nuzzling her nose up to my legs through the darkest parts of the tunnels.

Two days later we moved on but not before the spot was logged within Mrs Satnav as a favourite. In those two days a total of four cyclists and two walkers were our only fleeting visitors. They all without exeption, seemed surprised to see us as they passed by.

Unfortunately poor Tanya must have damaged her front paw during her long walk/run. She is hobbling about pathetically at present with an old sock of mine velcroed onto her leg to stop her licking off the Witch Hazel cream liberally applied to a visibly raw and very sore patch on her paw. At least it has the benefit of slowing me down even further. No bad thing.

Next stop Havea (or Javea or even Xabia) down by the coast for laundry, (I'm down to my last shirt) gas top up and then back up into the hills to visit good friends Lenny and Win in their new home/smallholding.

Strawberry Flan + more

Strawberry Flan

"I've got to have some of that Eve", 

Said Allan to his wife as he observed how I was tucking in to one of Mark's speciality's. Mark was quickly summoned over, he knowingly obliged and orders rapidly arrived at table.

Mark was owner and chef of the very relaxed and welcoming Dancers Bar at 'Burriana' beach, near 'Nerja'. What I was tucking into was a rather large portion of excellent home made Strawberry flan where the sweet juicy fruits snugly nestled amid their bed of creme brulee itself set upon delicate and perfectly cooked pastry. Gosh it was delicious. This was food to challenge the healthiest of hearts. Definitly a no no for me but heh! Life is nought but a strawberry tart temptation and I am a healthy (well sort of)  human being with full working complement of instant gratification weakness's.

I'd met up with Eve and Allan (well you try saying it the other way round.) a few days earlier in Dancers Bar as I enjoyed coffee and Wi Fi access. During the conversation Eve had mentioned that Mark's Sunday roast lunches were simply the best. I thought no more of it at the time as I planned to move on. However; such hinted at ideas, or Eve temptations, take on a life of their own deep in the mind. They linger, mature then ripen into action which saw me make a quick return on Saturday via the A7/E15 motorway and book myself in for a one thirty pm Sunday roast dinner. Eve and Allan were already seated as I arrived and kindly invited me to join them.

A choice of Beef, Gammon, or Chicken plus all the trimmings with the Parsnips roasted in honey being to die for. We were all three of us suitably stuffed after such a feast. Eve and Allan, quite rightly so, declined the sweet menu. Mention of home made Strawberry flan did it for me though and I ordered one. The rest is history. Eve and Allan, still wielding evidence removing table napkins, consoled themselves by promising, once again, dieting would definitely start the moment they returned home to the Isle of Wight. Problem being their return is not until March!
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General opinion down here seems to be this is the coldest Jan/Feb for about ten years. I can vouch for the last two years being warmer from personal experience. It is still bright and sunny though and warmth can be found out of the wind. I can vouch for that too as I enjoyed my first strip off and sunbathe at a sheltered beach just by 'Almunecar'. I was not alone either as much German flesh, complete with bobbly white bits, was on display all over the small but lovely little beach.
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The N340 used to be the main Costa del Sol coastal road until superseded by the amazing viaduct and tunnel wonder of the A7/N15 motorway. It is now a quiet but equally amazing cliff hugging road travelling East. Tonight I am in 'Adra' in the midst of the highly intensive plastic covered agricultural area around 'Almeria'. There are lots of Motorhomes here in a  parking area just behind the beach. I would have preferred to stop at one of the many cliff top wild spots I espied on the way. But with the very strong wind doing its best to push me over the edge into the wild and foaming sea far below, discretion and safety became more important. Not that it is not blowy here in 'Adra' but all four wheels are firmly planted on level tarmac and a line of trees are giving some relief from the rather savage gusts.
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Today though; well today has been all you could wish for from a Mediterranean February. No wind, glassy sea and a gorgeously warm sun.  

I'm a little further East, still very much in plastic greenhouse land, at 'Almerimar'. The marina here, it was explained to me by a guy from Portsmouth who lives with his partner on their sailing ketch, is cheap due to its headland location leading to frequent strong winds caused in part by rising heat from the surrounding hundreds of hectares of shiny plastic drawing in cooler sea air. The marina supplements its income from the many motorhomes, us included, it parks on the harbourside. All very civilized and social and all in all rather pleasant. Especially when weather plays ball as well.

Harbour master says rain tomorrow... Hmmph!
~~~~
Harbourmaster was right too. The rain duly pattered down on and off till about three this afternoon. That was OK though as by then we had stumbled upon the delightful and unspoiled 'La Isleta'. A tiny little fishing village in the hilly and Spaghetti Western type of country East of 'Almeria' known as 'Sierra del Cabo de Gata'. Just a sprinkling of vans here. Rogero and his wife Andy were one of them. Fluent English speaking German X boaters who were well into their seventies. I was enthralled as I listened to this fifty two years married couple tell me their story. A story of how once children had flown the nest they sold everything up, flew to the USA, bought a sailing boat and spent the next twelve years sailing the 'Americas'. They did not return once to Germany in all that time. Not until health and having their boat stolen in Venuzuela forced them to do so. Enough to knock you back into genteel and safe retirement you would think. Me coming across them in their camper van in the wild West of Spain tells another story though. A story both encouraging and uplifting.

Pure Brilliant & Alicia

"Wow! that was pure brilliant Tanya, pure brilliant!!"

I think she agreed too as she reached out and gave me one of her nose lick/kisses while being unhooked and lifted out of her green bucket/taxi on the back of our bike.

Today was the first time my trusty bike has been unloaded and used on this trip. Health-wise I've been nervous and have stuck to walking. I'm feeling better though. I think my health has improved which vindicates my self diagnosis and self administered prescription for all things Mediteranean.

'Nerja'. East of Malaga is where we are, Another favourite place. There is safe parking on the edge of town in a dirt patch down by the river five minutes walk from the beach. Not salubrious but adequate and quiet enough for Tanya to wander around freely. I was nervous at first as no other motorhomes were here, unlike last year when ten to twelve were on this same site all the time. I thought this year local police were maybe moving motorhomes on. It seems not so. I've been here three days with no problem and no sight of police or other motorhomes. Suits me fine.

Bike came off its rack and we set off for a gentle bike walk using the level cycle ways and beach side promenades. Turned out to be a big success which included a light lunch out at a beachside restaurant. We ended up cycling quite a long way westwards on the dead level and easy beachside track.

Right, I thought to myself. I'm not going to push my luck so it's back to Sadie for a rest up and cup of tea.

We did too, for over an hour, but then; well; I'd always wanted to follow the road/track up river further than the few Tanya walks we'd done. It's a good, well used track servicing riverside small holdings with veg growing, horses, and some building based businesses. And of course it very gently slopes uphill following the river bed as it wormed its way into the steep deep valleys and hills behind this narrow coastal strip.

We set off walking and pushing the bike. My idea was to walk as far as I felt comfortable knowing I had the free get out of jail card of bike plus downhill slope all the way back to Sadies door.

We soon fell in with an Irish couple out for a walk. What with chatting away and the warm late afternoon sunshine we ended up further up river than expected. I still felt really good. The Irish couple took a small road to the right which gave them a circular route back to 'Nerja'. Tanya and I continued  on to where we entered the 'Reserva Nacional de Sierra Tejeda'. Further and further we went even though by this time we were literally walking the wide flat river bed itself. Finally, the river bed narrowed entering a gorge. The path headed off steeply up to the right. Time to call a halt.

"OK Tanya, lets be having you and we'll head  back down." 

By this time she was quite happy to be offered a free ride. I can always tell as she leans herself against my leg waiting to be scooped up into her green 'taxi' bucket.

The ride back was the 'pure brilliant' bit. Gently sloping, rough and bouncy but just such fantastic fun. Down the river bed, splashing through the shallows, out of the National park, under the huge viaduct carrying the main A7/E15 coastal motorway and all the way down the well used tracks and occasional tarmac road until, swinging into the dirt parking area we arrive alongside Sadie safely awaiting us. I, for most of the way had stood tall and upright on the pedals with legs bent and acting as springs. I only had to pedal once, and very briefly at that. Tanya, even though she sits on a sponge seat and is clipped firmly in still bounces around a lot. She seems to love it, leaning out to one side with nose thrust forward and ears flapping in wind.

I've got a feeling we'll be doing that again!
- - - -
Laundry, water top up and of course the inevitable emptying of the 'black water' (toilet) cassette. Not a very exciting start to what turned out to be a delightful and very unusual 'Alicia' day.

Six kilometre's inland from 'Nerja' is the delightful hillside village of 'Frigiliana'. Sadie, after having to be negotiated through a too narrow street care of yours truly once again missing the correct turning, was finally and neatly parked. Off we went at a slow easy pace to explore this very steep, whitewashed and touristy Spanish village.

"Excuse me sir; do you know how I can get up to there?" 

The arm, i-phone in hand was pointing to a peak with what looked like a tower perched atop. It seemed from where we were standing to be directly above us albeit a long way up.

I smiled at this young Korean lady and indicated I was a tourist too. Off she went only for me to bump into her again as we, with like minds, sought out all the little roads, stairways and tracks leading upwards through the orchards and scrub pine forest. We fell in together, as you do, and finally fetched our peak with it's amazing views over village, surrounding countryside and beyond all the way down to the sea.

Alicia was a thirty year old, about to graduate, law student. She was an adventurer with a kind, open manner and youthful zest. With her trusty i-phone guide she was on a tour of Spain and Italy via local bus routes and hotels.

We chatted as we descended and it was agreed, over drinks, that she would love to ride to 'Nerja' in Sadie and would catch a later bus back to Malaga and her hotel. This was no problem as via her trusty i-phone all the relevant information was there for the asking, or rather, button pressing.

I tell you this. It puts a real smile on your face having a young and very excited Korean lady bouncing excitedly up and down in her ladyship Tanya's seat for a few kilometre's. 

"This new experience for me, this first time ever in motorhome. Wooo hooo!!"

We spent a lovely afternoon and evening around 'Nerja' before Tanya and I waved goodbye as her bus pulled away from the stop not two minutes from Sadies safe wildcamp spot.

Different culture, different age, different worlds but the same spirit of fun and adventure . A rewarding and enriching day. May you travel on safely Alicia.

Yup: a good one.

"Y'know that has been a good day Tanya."

Calming down has taken until now. Health anxiety is this time an added ingredient to the roller coaster of emotions always affective when starting my 'foreign' wanderings. Calm down and slow down I most definitely have to do. My body is giving me suitably clear indications (tiredness plus bits of aching where aching is not really supposed to be.) This happens when I do too much driving, walking, or whatever. I notice this year I aint gonna be doin 'stuff' the same as previous years.
Today however; has shown all is far from doom gloom and worry.

DODGY TICKER MAN & DOG are staying here in Spain and are gonna enjoy it.

'Zafra': a pleasant enough Aire at an edge of town showground for all things agricultural. This was where the day started. A late start for me too as once again I got caught out by my clever satellite signal clock which, and you would think I'd have learned by now, always reverts back to UK time no matter how you set it. 

"Aha! That's why everyone else is gone Tanya. Tis gone nine not eight".

'Time anxiety' entered mind at this point intent solely upon firing up an unhealthy dose of adrenalin fueled panic. The trick is recognizing anxiety's early arrival and then dealing with it quickly. Much like the unwanted salesman at the front door. The skill is to send them packing straight away before they get a foot in your door. Now of course I'm lucky. I'm retired and can afford to send 'Time anxiety' packing. Time is not my boss any more. Poor mind. There it was retreating in confusion and grumbling in utter dismay upon reading the new A4 sheet of totally opposite instructions. 

Instructions such as; "Don't matter I'm late. Is not a problem. In fact I think that today I'll go even slower. Lets start by having a long slow breakfast. Off you go now 'Mind team'. Go and re-organize. I know you can do it because you've done so well all these past years with the old panic and rush instructions".

We finally leave 'Zafra' with Mrs Sat nav set for the 'now redundant' main road rather than the super duper motorway. What a wonderfully relaxing drive. All the way to Seville, stopping to walk up to 'Castillo de Santa Olalla del Cala' on the way. We were passed by one car and I saw two tractors going the other way. All the traffic was whizzing down the new motorway leaving this former main road, which was in excellent condition by the way, delightfully winding its way to Seville criss crossing the motorway every now and then.

Mrs sat nav then faultlessly guided us through and round the busy Seville traffic to a welcoming Aire situated in a small Marina at a suburb called 'Gelves'. Literally we were parked in among the 'on dry land' boats with the 'Rio Guadaquiver' flowing by just behind us. Shower, toilet and cafe on site, other English folk to talk to; What's not to like?

We were very quickly settled with tea brewed and Tanya tucking into her evening meal. Yup. We both agreed the day had indeed been a good one.

Stormy Trip

I remember back in the early 70's sailing on the aircraft carrier 'HMS Eagle' Northwards through the 'Bay of Biscay'. Her bow was digging into the huge Atlantic rollers so deeply water flowed of her flight deck, some 40 or 50 feet above the waterline.

As Brittany Ferries good ship 'Eterat' pulled away from Portsmouth straight into gale force winds I said to Tanya:  

"I reckon we both gonna need our sea legs for this one". 

I was not wrong. A rock and roll trip indeed. I enjoyed it but I am fortunate in not suffering seasickness and having my Naval seagoing history. 

The 'Bay of Biscay' is notorious for rough weather as is the English Channel. As we headed down the channel into the teeth of the gale it was fairly heavy going but tolerable. Once the end of Brittany is rounded you are headed directly South which means the unstoppable Eastward travelling Atlantic rollers catch you sidywayse and literally toss and roll all 25000 tonnnes of Creaking banging ferry around like a cork.

So there am I, at table in the cafe, which on this ferry is right forward, trying to juggle keeping food and drink on the wildly pitching table while occasionally, and hastily, grabbing a mouthful of breakfast. Next to you, also juggling, is a cheery lorry driver informing that the recently burnt out with some loss of life Greek ferry is 'Eterats' sister ship. 

'Oh f*****g great' 

you think spooning in a tasty morsel as the ship noisily shudders and digs her bows deep into another mega wall of watery Atlantic immensity. Thank goodness for the strictly enforced safety rules on this side of the European continent. I don't think anyone on this trip would be foolish enough to even contemplate lighting a cooking fire on the car decks below us never mind the fact we cannot even access them while at sea.
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Santander was eventually 'fetched' (nautical way of saying reached) 3 hours late. A quick detour to a local beach gave Tanya a much needed walk on solid ground before we headed off down the smooth and uncrowded Spanish motorway to 'Palencia'. This was our stop for the night selected to heed everyone's, plus my own, concerns re my health. I pulled safely into the Aire  (official motorhome stop) which was already starting to fill with other motorhomes.
I have to tell you it was difficult resisting temptation and not pulling off into the vast high Spanish plains where I would normally wild camp within my beloved solitude & emptiness.

The sun was out though and before it dropped out of site Tanya and I enjoyed a leisurely and pleasant walk around the town.

Oh! and I just have to tell you it is SOOO good to be back down here again under warm blue skies.

Tis not all roses mind; Oh no!

Awakening this morning to -2° and fog reminded me it is not only rain that falls mainly on the Spanish plain. The cold and clammy fog and mist stayed as we travelled on. Thankfully we emerged from it nine kilometres before 'Salamanca', our next stop.

Both the 'Rough Guide' and 'Michelin Guide' wax lyrical and extensively over this city's history and architecture. Google the place and you will see.
My perspective is more a 'pets-pective', accompanied as I always am with my faithful amigo Tanya. The guides from their perspective are correct though, a stunning place indeed.
On only my second day of travel and in the cold month of January to be sat in Salamanca's 'Plaza Mayor' enjoying an Americano coffee in shirt sleeves and warm sunshine was very special indeed. What a plaza.

It's bloody cold again tonight!!
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'Caceres' tonight in a crowded out motorhome Aire. UGH!! Peaceful enough but I do not like being packed in like Sardines.

Tis decision time too as to which direction from here. I am tempted, being as the weather is so good, to go West into Portugal. Health has a say this year though and it is gently reminding me every now and again that maybe, just maybe, South and East would offer an easier to access get out clause should it be required. South East and the Costas means X Pat English spoken land. Maybe for once I'll choose the cautious option.

Wow! Some adventure this eh! Will Steve make it or not?  Will anxiety and worry get the better of him or will the early morning porridge and fresh fruit drive him on successfully through yet another day of intrepid adventuring through the wild Spanish Costas?

We leave our brave / stupid (you choose) wandering hero on the precipice. Should he face emptying his toilet cassette or just go straight to the supermarket for more fruit? Will he survive either?.... What will his decision be? 

Big drum roll here please. 

Stay with us reader for the next thrilling instalment of .......

DODGY TICKER MAN + DOG HITS SPAIN.