Out comes the guidebook, either Michelin or Rough Guide, does'nt matter which as both give only an editorally limited overview of this the 'Castilla y Leon & La Rioja' area of Spain. Cities, Cathederals, museums, hotels and tourist offices are all listed and written about. Anything in fact to do with Spains great historical, architectural and religious heritage is in there complete with visiting times and dates. Nothing to tell you dogs are a no go at nearly all such places. There is also nothing about what grabs me everytime I depart ferry at Santandar and head upwards and Southwards into Spains high interior.
I suppose I have a particular set of gifts which seemingly place me in the minority, or non existent, as far as regular tourism goes, including the motorhome fraternity too.
To start with I have an abundance of time and no inclination to hurry. What a gift that is after a life of having time itself wielding the whip. I enjoy my aloneness which I joyfully share with my dog Tanya. Then of course there is my insatiable curiosity which loves with passion the open, 'off the tourist route' and 'what is around the next bend'. To be also fortunate enough to enjoy good health coupled with sufficient means is truly a set of gifts deserving of the accolade 'very highest order'.
So there I am, about to drive off the ferry along with fifty to sixty other motorhomes/caravans. All eager to be on our way after a 24hr roughish crossing of the Bay of Biscay. (It is January so to be expected) I'm with the others until the outer edge of 'Santandar' where I, as instructed by her ladyship Madame Sat Nav, turn off and engage with other than Motorway and main roads. Suddenly and since that moment motorhomes or caravan are a very rare sight. The dash to Southern coastal resorts seemingly the sheepdog herding the sheep.
Ok! So I'm up here just North of Burgos where I will overnight. Yes it is coldish, cloudy and blustery wet. And yes, I am also headed South'ish but giving myself time, It is such a gift, to have that time to enjoy these high, beautiful but bleak, agricultural plains criss crossed by small deserted roads and with villages where you are stared at in amazement as you pass slowly and leisurely through.
We did stop in 'Burgos' and take advantage of the sunshine to walk the lovely riverside promenade to the impressive Cathedral. As usual, no dogs. We managed a cheeky sneak preview by cautiously entering the exit door and keeping to the shadows. That's when I'm thankful Tanya is a small, black, quiet and well behaved doggy.
On our return to Sadie we contemplated staying the night until, that is, we realized it's Saturday and the youth of said Burgos were out in force and well armed with fearsomely loud firecrackers.
So here we are out in the wilds near to 'Santo Domingo de Silos' where (Thanks Rough Guide!) at midday tomorrow I may just leave Tanya in Sadie and attend the world famous Benedictine abbey to hear some Gregorian chant which (errrr, thanks again Rough Guide!) Is their claim to fame with several CD's under their belt, or habit.
I did attend Vespers & the chanting was good albeit by not many Monks.
I'm further South now near 'Cuenca'. Todays bonus was coming across 'Serrania de Cuenca' with its 'Enchanted Forest' full of amazing natural stone sculpture. A complete meditation in its own right.
Now completely shattered, both dog and yours truly. A quiet night ahead parked in the forest. Finishing off last nights curry with hot tea to wash it down. Wi fi amazingly available from bar across the car park and Gorecki symphony no3 gently playing in the background.
What's not to like eh?
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