Beara, Kenmare & Dingle.

"Yu not wanted here. F***k off and make it quick right. Can yu not read the f***king signs. Now get off with yu NOW!!"

Colouful language indeed delivered from a face screaming 'no compromise, no nice'ness, no chance change of heart. It was evening. We were at the totally deserted cable car parking area at 'Dursey point' right on the tip of the 'Beara Peninsular'. True there were notices indicating no overnight camping. As followers of this blog know these notices are no deterrent to big rufty tufty wild camper Steve and his trusty companion Tanya. This rather unpleasant and aggressive enforcing of such a notice, especially at this, 'the end of holiday season' therefore came as a bit of a surprise.

About an hour later and still stinging with vulnerability we were safely and happily parked in a small ad hoc campsite. (read field with gate open and old caravans scattered around ) I willingly parted with a perfectly reasonable €6.00 to a much nicer and friendlier old farmer who grinned knowingly at ..... well I wonder ..!

Now I'd have been quite happy, to have heard from the previous excuse for a humanoid a; 'look, we're a bit touchy about overnight parking around here. Could you go and park on the beach site at Allihies please', which is where I now was.

Motto of the story; keep clear of Co Cork. They don't seem to like Motorhomes and are none too backward about making the fact known. They also specialize in rather off putting notices saying 'NO DOGS ALLOWED' and 'Dogs have been SHOT on these hills!'  These at the start of the well signposted coastal and copper mine trail walks. Hmmmmm!

The drive around the Peninsular however, was stunning. Not to be undertaken by anyone nervous of driving down coast hugging roads designed for horses and donkeys but just stunning.

I called in to the 'Dzogchen Beara Buddhist centre' en route. This centre is affiliated to the school of Buddhism whom 'Sogyal Rimpoche', author of 'The Tibetan Book of Living and Dying' is of huge influence. An author and book which for me has been life changing and indeed still influences my daily mental stability. Others would maybe question the mental stability bit. I guess they could be right too as I, never mind anyone else, am convinced I'm as daft as the proverbial brush. But I'm happy.

The journey around the Peninsular started and finished at Kenmare back in good old Co Kerry. I have had no trouble for two years now wild parking on the concrete roadway/cul de sac adjacent to the harbour and right at the head of the Kenmare Estuary with it's mouth watering west facing sunsets. These spectacles are to die for.

The old Irishman on his evening promenade along the roadway said knowingly; "Ahhh yes that'll be Co Cork right enough," as I reached the end of regaling him with my tale of woe about the unpleasantness at 'Dursley Point' .

I had company for breakfast the next morning too. A big beautiful Terradactile looking Heron within close binocular range of my open door. I watched him gobble up three sizeable fish as I munched on breakfast cereal and sipped tea. Absolute life playing out it's paradoxical connection to death right in front of my breakfast table. Fish - nil. Heron - three. Ho hummmm eh!

Finally to Dingle Food Festival and my attendance at Darach O Murchu's 'Foraging for Seaweed' workshop. Great fun. A hands on, or rather a welly boots on and trip down to the edge of a rocky low tide beach to learn about edible seaweed. Turns out most seaweed is edible but, as usual, there is a wealth of sea food knowledge and expertise already forgotten by the very likeable Daragh, which is far more than I will ever learn.

His quick cook on the roadside, and we all get a taste, of 'sea spaghetti with pesto' and 'Oat and seaweed butter fried patties' were yummy yum yum!

Mind you, lets get things in perspective. I have just enjoyed a delicious locally made Steak and Guinness pie bought from one of the festival stands. OK! Not so healthy as seaweed but still yummy yum yum.

At least now I have a better idea of what seaweed I can munch away at while doing my beachy rock walks. One tip Daragh did share. 

"When foraging with a dog keep an eye open for where your dog pees!" Good advice methinks.