Various - 18/5 to 23/5

18/5/12 Location – edge of Lac Montbell just by the hamlet of Montbell, Calabres, Ariege. It is a dull, wet but warm evening.

I wonder, have you ever considered the purpose in life of say a tea leaf or a grain of rice stored away safely in its container? Their prime task is rightfully that which they were put on this earth for. Rice with the accompaniment of it's friends and neighbours to plump up and be the delightfully bland counterpart to a deliciously hot and fruity curry. Tea to eagerly impart it's nectar to boiling water and so provide the perfect cup of tea while pondering the comings and goings of life.

But did you know they also have a secondary function in life at which they excell. This secondary function has now been scientifically verified as genuine in the village of  'Ille-sur-Tet' while on route to 'Quillan' from 'Argeles-sur-Mer'.

Turning right instead of left or vica-versa is not an unusual experience for me when driving Sadie. It is one of the reasons I miss the sat nav as the repeated, “in 500metres turn left etc etc” from the friendly voice of Emma tends to reduce the number of wrong turns. In 'Ille-sur-Tet' I made a mistake and was looking for a suitable and safe place to turn Sadie around. A builders yard presented itself conveniently and Sadie was swinging round ready to exit in the correct direction. A sickening lurch as Sadies back wheel hit a large, vicious and unseen pothole. This put every cupboard catch in the van under severe strain. This time the cupboard above the sink sprang open (I suspect because I had probably not latched it fully home)

Now I would consider instant coffee granules as having the same primary functions in life as rice and tea. Like rice and tea instant coffee granules also have the secondary function, given the slightest opportunity, of escaping their container, performing unbelievable feats of gravitational challenge, and desporting themselves over the widest spectrum of available possibility. A three quarter full snap off top jar of instant coffee granules flung at speed out of a high cupboard in a motorhome emphatically proved this secondary function. Gravity holds no power over these tiny particles as they each head for their chosen destination propelled by the force of the spinning, and now separated from snap off top, coffee jar on it's way to the floor of the van. Thankfully it did not shatter thus sparing me the shards of broken glass saga.

A quick stop and the worst of the mess was brushed up but it was not till the next morning the full extent of the mess became apparent. We were wild camped just outside the charming little hill village of 'Ansignan'. The day started early with an impromptu walk to a Dolmen (neolithic stones) atop the nearby hill with amazing views toward the snow covered peaks of Canigou. (the mountain of Catalan) Earlier though, coffee granules in my bed and in Tanya's ears had convinced me a van strip out and deep clean was required. There were coffee granules in every conceivable nook and cranny throughout the motorhome. Luckily it was a warm, dry morning so virtually the whole van contents were flung out while I cleaned with soapy water. The water had to be renewed 2 or 3 times as it quickly became black coffee.

That was yesterday. A few minutes ago I raised the bed on it's hinges to retrieve a map from the storage space beneath. Guess what fell out of the map as I opened it? … !!!!!

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20/5/12 – location – still on the edge of 'Lac Montbell'.

Y'know what; there has been a subtle change. Maybe it is just the slowing down, or perhaps it is to do with the length of time away. I think the return to more regular meditative practice and study has a connection too. I said at the start, this journey is about 'don't know' and I guess that applies to subtle mental changes too.

This is the second morning at this very pleasant spot right on the edge of the man made and very large 'Lac Montbell'. We arrived Friday evening to a very Scottish dull, low grey scudding cloud outlook. It got worse with thunder and lightening and lots of rain overnight. Tanya hates thunder and shakes uncontrollably. She just wants to cuddle up close and safe. She really is a big teddy bear and for the first time I let her sleep on her blanket next to me on the bed as the thunder continued to rumble round the mountains. Saturday morning dawned bright and sunny and I rested in bed with a sleeping Tanya looking out to clear blue sky and snow covered mountain tops in the distance. Magnificent! We took full advantage and completed the 18km circuit of the lake via bike and walking.

A lovely ride/walk. The lake, according to a couple we met is higher than anyone has ever known due to the unseasonally warm spring causing earlier and faster than usual mountain snow melt. This was attested to by the path being quite new in places where people had to find dry ways further up the banks. It was also attested to by me, on bike with Marks and Spencers bag on the front (with my lunch in it!) and Tanya harnessed into her green plastic bucket on the back, at speed coming round a downhill corner on a smooth and exciting bit of the track and ending up in about half a metre of water with the path emerging about 10 metres ahead. Riding a doggy and lunch laden bike through deep water on a submerged mudpath is not one of the life skills that my 64 years has taught me. I must seek out a training course! Luckily I had on shorts and all terrain sandals so a quick and ungainly dismount managed to keep bike, Tanya and my lunch dry with the only casualties being my feet and legs and the lower half of the bike.

We returned to Sadie tired and wind blown but in high spirits and just before the now once again closing in weather started to dampen things. The same rain is still scudding in and no snow covered peaks in the distance were seen this morning.

A few weeks ago weather such as this 'got to me', forcing me south, agitating and frustrating me. Now however; I seem to have settled in to the fact 'it is as it is'. Tanya too. After yesterday, and this mornings early morning damp walk she is fast asleep. I have spent a very pleasant and peaceful morning just 'being as is'. I find I am in no hurry to move even though the plan is for a local visit to 'Montsegur', the last refuge of the Cathars. Well. Long may it continue.

Hmmmm! Time for coffee and lunch and then we'll review the day, or what's left of it!

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23/5/12 – location – 'Montgauch' Just west of 'St Girons', Ariege.

The weather got worse. In fact a lot worse and I gather from conversations with others that east of here there has been some quite severe flooding. I'm not surprised. It is Wednesday morning now and dry but overcast. The rain did not stop until late yesterday afternoon. Quite a shock for me going back to full wet weather gear, central heating and trying to dry things after our time down in sunnier climes at the coast.

There are compensations though. The whole of the mountain top castle of 'Montsegur' to myself as no one else was crazy enough to tackle the very steep walk up to the castle on such a filthy afternoon. The castle was just a ruin . No cafe or anything like that. Not surprising really when you remember the last inhabitants were Cathars and they were under siege from the french king. Louise or something like that. The 227 Cathars, after a year of this siege finally gave in and all bar four escapees were burned at the stake at the bottom of the hill. I don't suppose I'd be very keen in setting up a cafe and restaurant after that lot. Especially as it was one hell of a rough steep path to cart everything up. Quite spooky as I struggled up to where one minute I am able to see the village of Montsegur virtually below me and the next, nothing, as the clouds rolled in reducing vision to about two metres.

The mountain rivers too. Spectacular on the circuitous and mountain pass route I took to get here from 'Lac Montbell'. I did not this time, take the really high pass as it was pretty certain to be snowed up and I don't have snow chains.

My phone should at some point round about now be arriving at the 'Office de Tourisme' in 'St Girons'. We arrived yesterday, took one look at the most unsavoury Aire on the edge of the town, or more to the point the refugee like status of an awful lot of people, vans and encampments that surrounded it, and hightailed it out to the countryside again. North about a mile up the D117, hang a left and Yup, 'Montgauch' came up trumps with a lovely little flat area by a tennis court and boules area. The local population then arrived to play 'Petang' (boules. I think that is what they call it)

“Errrr, scuse moi madame. Il est OK pour moi et motorhome remainez por une nuit?”

“Ahhhh, oui, oui, oui. Vous playez Petang eh?

“Ahhhhh, non madame.”

“Est no prroblem, Vous moi teama Ok?”

“Ahhh, Errrr, Ummmm OK!!”

So tea was left, Tanya watched with amusement as I joined Patricia's team and was shown what to do and directed where to throw my steel balls. (steady now.......they appeared out of the boot of one of the cars and are what you play the game with.) Well me and ball games that require good hand and arm co-ordination can be summed up by the word 'erratic'. However; I did manage to aquit myself reasonably well and gained inesteemable honour while much ribbing went on between the teams as, in Patricia's words, “Le champion locale” was neatly knocked out by an extremely lucky throw of mine which clinched the game for our team.

Another, older local arrived at that point who was obviously well known and loved by all so I took the opportunity to retire while the going was good. I watched the rest of the evenings games from Sadie as I prepared our much delayed evening meal. Hearty goodbyes were shouted as they all left.

And.... it did'nt rain the whole evening!

My Team. See the cheeky face of Patricia?

Spotted in St Lizier. Now there's Topiary for you!

NB.

Just picked up my package with my phone in it. Fingers crossed it will work. You'll hear later if it does.