Motorhome meet, characters & Andy Murray.

Such a beautiful clear and star studded sky with only the intermittent haze of woodsmoke from the bonfire misting the view at the whim of the breeze. 

"Wow! Did you see that shooting star Trish?" 

She did and reluctantly tore her eyes away from the vista to briefly tend to her expertly set woodland bonfire.

Trish and her self modified transit van complete with woodburner and two dogs were pulled into a convenient spot on a wee road through the forest. I had stopped, as you do, to have a chat which at the offer of a redbush tea had me backing Sadie alongside and disgorging Tanya to meet her two new doggy companions, Kelsey and Merlin. All three dogs were soon best of friends and exploring the forest as Trish and I sipped Redbush tea and, as you do, shared stories.

Trish lived and worked in Dundee and was re visiting some of the camping spots she had used on her epic walk a few years ago from John O Groats to Lands End. A fascinating lady with a fascinating story to tell.

I had some quality beef and lamb burgers left over and cooked up a scrumptious meal with the wild mushrooms Trish had gathered. Agreement was reached that I also do the washing up while Trish, a real outdoors lady, got a campfire going where, after our hot chocolate and tot of whisky we quietly and in hushed awe viewed the universe above us.

I was slowly wending my way back to Glasgow after attending a social weekend at Brin Herb Gardens. Our hosts Angus and Margaret had once again hosted a successful gathering of Motorhomers together with Barbeque and visit to the Dores Inn on the shore of Loch Ness for a very tasty meal.

It was at the Dores Inn where wee whisky drinking civil engineer, and sometime Scottish Buddhist Drew suprised us all by stripping down to swim trunks and leaping into the Loch for a quick swim before the meal. Brrrrrr! For once I was quite happy to see someone else taking the plunge as it was a non sunny day with a cold breeze blowing. He survived and joined us positively glowing & just in time to order his 'todays special' of roast pork loin with an extra portion of the caramalised onion and apple gravy.

Drew and his wee dog Hamish were another two interesting characters. They were on a two week trip around the area in their small camper van which was very basic but again Drew was a real outdoor food forager type of guy whom I was delighted to get to know better as we shared a long walk on the Monday after all the other Motorhomers had left.

I'm now settled for the evening in a Forest car park not too far from Perth. We had a great walk earlier to the forest hilltop and lovely views of Dundee, the Tay Estuary and all the way back to the Cairngorms where we had travelled through since saying cheerio to Trish and her dogs earlier this morning. Poor Tanya is now back to once again having to put up with just me after the last few days of having a real variety of other dogs to converse and sniff bums with.

Well we finally made it back to East Kilbride but not before a visit to Perth Caravans where I drooled for sometime over the motorhomes on display. I left after discussing battery 'happenings' with their service department and decided to wait and see before forking out an uncomfortable two hundred quid for new batteries. I also had a quick look around Sadie as we rolled down the A9 and thought; 

"you're an OK motorhome and you and me has a few years of travelling to do yet." Tanya of course fully agreed with me.

The Dunblane sign hove into view. Well! With Andy Murray just winning his first grand slam and becoming US champion how could I NOT visit. For a town with such tragic a history (1996 Dunblane Massacre) forever lurking in its archives there was a good feeling tinged with poignancy attached to this visit. To walk from the memorial stone in the cathedral to the Andy Murray Olympic Gold painted post box is to walk from a gun enabled tragic waste of human endeavour to the peak of human perseverance and sheer guts. Yes, Dunblane was a vibrant and sun blessed place to be on such a day.

Sadie seemed to roll on a little lighter and faster afterwards and it was not long before we were settled and plugged in on Chris and Michele's driveway. Big hugs and shouts of delight from grandchildren Becks and Aidan made the arrival a welcome return to East Kilbride.

Fishermen (and women) and Gold.

Phew! 

We had abandoned number one plan of heading for John O Groats and opted instead for plan one hundred and six. Get the hell out of the fierce coastal gales and travel inland to a sheltered valley.

The Gillie turned in and parked just in front of us. His two clients and their posh cars with fishing rods neatly stashed on magnetic bonnet and roof brackets also turned in and parked. 

"Uhh ho" thinks me. "Am I in bother for parking here in this lovely sheltered riverside spot in the River Naver valley just below Bettyhill?" 

I need not have worried. Both Gillie and fishermen/women were not in the least bit concerned about my presence. They were in fact quite happy to chat as they busied themselves preparing to fish for more Salmon on this stretch of the river. Seems like it was not the best of days as the water level had dropped seven inches overnight and the bright sunny sky was also not ideal.

The area is very popular with the fishing and over the next few days I got quite used to pulling in to the frequent passing places on these single track roads to let the numerous, and mainly Mercs and Range Rovers pass by, complete with their obligatory magnetic fishing rod carriers.

Oh! The calm, NON 'rock n roll' night of sleep enjoyed at that first delightfully sheltered stop was bliss indeed.

Tanya, next morning, found half a dead sheep and gorged at it for nearly  ten minutes before I found her. Not quite so blissful but thankfully no re-gurgitation inside Motorhome either!

"Wow!" I said. "Is that really proper gold from this river?" 

Ian assured me it was and showed us all the other small vials he had with differing amounts of gold in them. All were dated to show when he had panned it. I was in the Goldfields, as they seem to refer to them up here, above Helmsdale on the Suisgill and Kildonan Burns. Ian regularly panned this area and it soon became apparent that many hours and many tons of riverbed had been moved and painstakenly panned to yield up the small amounts of gold we were looking at. No matter. I had never seen raw gold before and was mightily impressed.

The three tents and parked motorhome on this bend in the road had grabbed my curiosity and seeing as it was late afternoon I pulled in for the night. I was soon in awed conversation with this small group of real characters who were regular visitors to this 1868 goldrush site. Another curious couple on holiday from Essex with their tent soon joined us and a very pleasant evening and next morning were spent swapping stories and lives. Bill, a Scot with Australian roots entertained us in his motorhome in which he lived fulltime with his cross collie dog named Robby. Bill had a murky past attested to as he eagerly showed us his ankle tag explaining that was why he could only travel areas local to Peterhead. What a pair of characters they were. I still have Robby's 'playfully administered' teethmarks on my arse to prove it!

It never ceases to amaze me how, within a very short space of time, all the rawness, tragedy, richness, tenderness, violence and nonsensical humour of life is laid out for witness by a group of people who, only a few hours previous, were not even remotely aware of each others existence. I hope, pray even, I never lose such humbling a gift as 'being amazed and awestruck'. To me that was and always is the Gold.

Gales .... again & future in chaos.

' ...... and there will be severe gales in Northeast Scotland .....' Issued forth from the radio. 

"Well you needn't tell me cos I bloody well know!" Says a tired and fed up me from the sunshine of a quiet glen just south of Bettyhill on the north coast of Scotland. 

Last night, however; was very Different and frightening. It had been windy during my two nights at a clifftop campsite at Durness but the wind was tolerable and spirits were positive and high as we set off toward John O Groats via the strangely named 'Smoo cave'. Then it was onward through the stunning scenery of this wild, russet and purple coastal road. I proposed a stop at Strathy lighthouse and  when a convenient spot presented itself we decided to spend the night there. Sadies rear end was strategically placed facing the stiff breeze with the forward view being a wide vista taking in both Douneray across the bay and the Orkney Isles to our left. Beautiful. A walk to the lighthouse once again gave no Whale or Dolphin sightings at this, renowned for such sightings, peninsular. On returning to Sadie I noticed the breeze had stiffened somewhat although nowhere near the intensity of the previous two nights.

Well dear reader let us now move on to two am in the morning. I've had a little fitful sleep but the now screaming gale hitting Sadie square on her rear and, incidently, four inches from my pillowed head, had me wide awake and concerned for survival. There are two rear facing opening roof vents and these were giving noisy rattling notice of wishing to immediately and dramatically separate from the roof.  Thank goodness for the garden wire and bamboo canes I had purchased to repair my kite. Vents were duly secured from inside. I then gingerly ventured outside through a door that needed both strength and care if it were to retain the title of door rather than gaping hole and 'gone with the wind' piece of shredded plastic. Thankfully what was alarming and frightening from the inside of Sadie was actually holding together well upon outside inspection.

Morning finally came accompanied by bright blue sky, scudding clouds and an amazing whitecapped, enraged seascape. The wind however showed no sign of abating. I was at right angles to the road and it was getting busy. Five sheep, yes five with two more not ten minutes later, came trotting by totally unaffected by what must be to them normal weather. Now I am not a sheep and Sadie, side on would be presenting fifteen square metres of wind resistance rather than a sheep's woolly wind adapted profile.

"If I back out and turn ninety degrees we are gale fodder!", I muttered as I visualised a wheels up Sadie slithering down the coastal slope toward ultimate destruction on the wave lashed rocks way below us.

"Whoa! Whoa! C'mon Tanya, time to stop this destructive thinking, get out of Sadie and see what it is really like and how we get out of this mess." 

I tell you that was fun. Ever seen a three and a half legged small dog walking diagonally and leaning into the wind with her Schnauzer beard blowing into her eyes and her ears flapping like demented butterfly wings. I would have been doubled up with laughter had I not been struggling to stay on two feet myself. We managed to reach a deserted building about five hundred metres distance where I calculated I could tuck Sadie into the lee. Dare I attempt to drive her there though?

Sadie was started up and I waited for a quieter spell between the savage roof ripping gusts. 

"Here we go Tanya, here we go!" 

A clumsy and bumpy reverse out and then a quick dash to the lee of the building. Phew! We made it and the difference was noticed immediately with Sadie still rocking but not alarmingly so. I was exhausted and immediately stretched out on the bed where I remained fast asleep for the next hour.

I was awakened as another motorhome blithely, in the still screaming but bright and sunny winds, drove by. I felt a right wimp!  Until, that is, they returned, very much slower, stopped right by us, wound down the window and shouted across. 

"I see why you're there. Swear I went on two wheels just back there over the crest." 

I wished them safe journey and watched them gingerly move on and crab their way on down the exposed road.

They did however; give me the encouragement I needed to move on myself a little later. I backtracked to Bettyhill where I have come inland and South to this secluded little pull in at the side of the road on the Altnaharra estate.

Last night's whole experience was particularly difficult as my continuing this lifestyle had been thrown into disarray earlier in the evening. I received a phone call from my letting agent informing of my tenants giving one months notice to quit. This was Indeed unexpected and added a 'doom and gloom' mental attitude to the already storm induced worry and anxiety

This evenings mental state?  Ah well! Everything is for a reason. Guess it will sort itself out one way or the other.

North, North, North & blocked view.

"Well; will you look at that Tanya. A nearly empty campsite and they have to park right next to me and block my lovely sea view!" The grumpiness continued till after I had grabbed a late lunch snack and had a wee Woodward speciality, the five minute nap.

We were at Sango Sands campsite, Durness. After several days of meandering slowly up through the narrow roads and incredible scenery of West Scotland I fancied a campsite with long hot showers and also a mains hook up to fully re-charge my batteries. There was another 'blow you off yer feet' gale blowing with low visibility, horizontal rain, and in short, everything a North of Scotland Atlantic storm should be. Sadie was duly parked facing into the gale, electric was hooked up and there we sat, snug and rocky atop cliffs overlooking a beautiful beach. Yes; it was wind and rain swept but it was still beautiful. Tanya and I donned wet gear later in the evening and had a bracing walk along the golden sands right at the edge of the crashing and wind agitated waves.

This morning was very different. Still a strongish wind but clear blue sky and scudding white clouds. So it was off for a good coastal walk through the huge sand dunes and stunning beaches. Binoculars always at the ready too as it is a very good area for whale and Dolphin spotting. No sightings unfortunately. Until that is, we return tired and exhausted to be faced with this whale of a motorhome parked right next door and obstructing my lovely view. I was going to move but hey! Life is too short and grumpiness only makes it shorter. I've changed seats instead so now I'm looking out landward to the dramatic hills and, as the afternoon progresses, their cloaks of darkening grey fast moving clouds.

Tomorrow we move on toward John O Groats and then turn South toward Inverness where next weekend I'm re-visiting the Highland mini meet of Motorhomers which last year was my first proper outing in the newly purchased, and now much loved, Sadie.

Gales & barriers.

"No kite flying in this eh Tanya." I said as we slowly emerged into the morning after a night of rock n roll sleep as Sadie weathered the continuing force nine going on ten gale. Our spot just above Bostadh beach, Lewis, with its restored Iron age house and the tide and time Bell, one of twelve distributed at various beaches around the UK, was a wild location and the weather a dramatic change on the previous day. Such are the Hebrideas.

Indeed the day before we had enjoyed a wonderful sun drenched walk and climb to Ceapabhal followed by a skinny dip in the sea this time at the breeze sheltered end of a glorious white sand beach about a mile from where we had spent the night at Taobh Tuath, just up from Leverburgh, Isle of Harris.

I am sometimes reluctant to spend more than one night at a wildcamping spot where I see it is regularly used by locals for various leisure activities. So with the sun still shining we had slowly made our way to our current Atlantic gale bearing site. Very slowly in fact as narrow roads, stunning scenery at every twist and turn of the road and frequent 'passing place' stops do not equate to even medium, never mind fast, speed.

The weather was not improving so on we went. This time to the Butt of Lewis with a stop to visit the Callanaish stones. The site of the stones had a very good and well designed visitor centre. Even with the gale still blowing as it was I was able to sit in the sheltered courtyard with Tanya and enjoy a cup of coffee, half a sausage roll (guess who had the other half?) And a slice of very yummy apple pie.

Refreshing also was the emphasis the visitor centre exhibition put on not knowing the real meaning behind these circles and lines of stones. My take on it has an Olympic theme. "Right teams ready..... you've got your stones, rolling timbers and ropes and you have to move it one hundred deer leaps to before standing it up in the prepared hole. On your marks ...... GO!!" I figure it's as good a guess as any other with the winning team getting first pick at the barbecued seal.

The Butt of Lewis was interesting too albeit in a different way. Such a treeless and bare promontory in a force ten gale is no place to try and stand for a human never mind a three and a half going on four legged dog. We kept well away from any edges that was for sure.
The northern end of the Isle of Lewis is a flat and treeless landscape of peat moor, lakes and scattered communities. Sadie being a large box type house on wheels was, now we were heading across the island toward Stornaway, finding it quite difficult to stay on the road in the savage crosswind and horizontal rain. Slow going and dedicated concentration saw me pleased to finally drop down into Stornaway and its slightly less windy ferry terminal where we booked ourselves onto the six am ferry across to Ullapool.

A bollocking and a 'made to wait delay' was received from the 'jobsworth' ferry queue attendant before we finally boarded, set sail & enjoyed the full breakfast on offer in the cafe. Well I am getting older and I thought last arrival was 35minutes before boarding not 45minutes which is why I was faced with a barrier and the ferry queues on the other side of it. I thought I showed intelligence and initiative by noticing my obstruction was an unmanned. I unlocked the barrier which was very quickly negotiated placing me on the right side and at the back of the boarding qeue. Hmmmm! CCTV.  Need I say more! Never mind. Jobsworth seemed to thoroughly enjoy his power wielding and I managed to keep a straight face as I offered my abject, and of course completely sincere apologies.

You just have to laugh as these continual 'barriers' to life pursue you......!

Godfellow and his pictures

"Heavens above will you look at that Tanya and let's just shut this window like right now!" 

It was just before eight am, the sun was shining and there was not a breath of wind to rustle the purple heather landscape in our secluded perch above Loch Sgiopoirt in South Uist. Tanya was, as usual, having her morning tummy rub on the bed as I lazily came to after a good night's sleep. I often open the sliding window at the head of my bed which is at the rear of the motorhome. Tanya loves then to put her nose outside and have a good sniff of morning and all its doggy promises.
However; ..... sunny warm morning ....... not a breath of wind ........ Scotland in all it's colourful Hebridean August glory ....... Well; It means only one thing ........ Midges!! ....... Huge clouds of them cavorting in ecstatic dances of blood sucking anticipation of Sadie disgorging its human and doggy content.

They really are a sight to behold when appearing in such vast numbers outside of every window. But the morning was beautiful and I knew brisk movement would render the number of midges able to bite face and hands tolerable. So it was on with the recently purchased 'George from Asda' hoody which was duly tied tightly round the face. Binoculars and camera in pocket. A quick spray of 'Avon Skin so soft' to further deter the blood suckers. A leap from the door into their midst and away Tanya and I went at a brisk pace which thankfully did the trick of providing a moving target accessible only to the fittest and most intelligent of midgy society.

Oh! And what a reward. To be overlooking a western Isles sea loch, deathly still and mirroring the morning sky of benign blue and fluffy white is to see Godfellow and his/her artistic skills in the no walls or roof gallery of 'now' or 'in the moment'. Human artists can capture and portray skillfully such vistas and indeed they too take your breath away with their accuracy, use of colour and individual perception. No one though, can provide such a gallery as this Godfellow artist. Every millimetre twist and turn, of the eye, a new three sixty degree panorama of unsurpassed beauty presents itself. My attempts to photograph wee bits of this breathless vista were, I knew, mere pin pricks of mediocracy against such incalculable perfection. Plus we could not stop moving or within milliseconds the squadrons of midges gathered together in numbers also incalculable!

We were soon back in Sadie enjoying breakfast along with a few guests who, as is the Midgy way of life, died off relatively quickly and left us in peace. The door was opened again at ten thirty. Not a midge in sight and another pleasant walk was enjoyed. The magnificence of the early morning was now not to be seen. No; there was now a breeze rippled bluish grey sea loch under an amassing mixture of high hazy stratus and rolling grey Cumulus. Bright, benign and with blue sky to the north it still was, but the unwordable beauty of the early morning had gone.

What now then Tanya eh?" Says I as I mentally struggled with 'shall we move on? Shall we stay? Or whatever. When I reach this point in my deliberations there is usually a shrug of the shoulders as once again I acknowledge the 'don't know' aspect of this new life of mine. As usual too, something always turns up. This time it was two local ladies taking advantage of the weather and arriving for a walk and a picnic. They pointed out a particular walk they had done previously which of course saw Tanya and I well into it ten minutes later. I guess, looking back, it was the icing on the cake. The sun re appeared as we meandered around the sea loch and I just could not resist working down to the shoreline, stripping off and skinny dipping in the cold, but not as cold as expected, loch. Exhilerating!

The wonderful day continued as we drove over the causeway into North Uist and perched for the night on the magnicent North coast beaches between Machair and Solas.

I reckon Kite flying tomorrow eh Tanya?

Outer Hebrides

Last night I was at the top of the hill overlooking Oban, Forth of Lorn, Lismore and in the distance the Sound of Mull which was to be the ferry route I would travel tomorrow to Lochboisdale in South Uist. I had arrived earlier in the afternoon to a sunny, warm and bright Oban. I have to add here this is most unusual. Kate and I travelled to Oban several times but this is the first time I have experienced a dry and blue sky Oban. A nice bonus. I had intended to wild camp overnight but unintentionally arrived at Oban campsite.  At fifteen quid another bonus as I could 'do all the necessary's a motorhome demands plus luxuriate in a good hot shower.

The evening was gorgeous with the not too strenuous walk up the hill a pleasant exercise after the evening meal. Tanya had her exercise too as she strained on the lead with, I may add, splendid use of all four legs, trying to get free and chase the sheep which were in no particular hurry to scatter themselves as we approached. Yes. I am afraid she does have that discrepancy of doggy brain which means lead on whenever the woolly jumpered grass engined beasties are encountered.

So here we are a day later wild parked at the southernmost point of South Uist. The waves are gently crashing onto the white sandy beach and Sadie is neatly perched just above on a convenient stony area. Evening is drawing toward night now with the westward panorama turning to darker shades of blue and grey as the sun rolls away behind firstly, her cloud cover, then horizon and so taking her myriad coloured pallet onward to yet more sunset adoring eyes.

The ferry was five hours but what views as we sailed up the Sound of Mull past Skye, Rum and then out into deeper waters as the Hebridean Isles slowly presented themselves ahead but then disappeared in the mists of squally showers.

I'll give Cal Mac full marks too for allowing well behaved dogs into the passenger areas. She thoroughly enjoyed the experience and the 'not too rough' sea movement did not for one moment spoil her enjoying her pre prepared evening meal.

After five hours on a ferry though we were both glad to finally settle Sadie and release and relieve with a good romp along this beautiful wild and desolate beach.  Actually not so desolate as there is an Inn about half a mile further on at roads end. There is a surprising flow of traffic going to and fro. Never mind. The search for real isolation starts in earnest tomorrow. For now a wee bit of traffic along with no intelligible radio, no internet and no mobile phone signal will have to suffice. TV I hear you say? Well you are certainly correct to ask as Sadie is of course proud owner of a fully functioning satellite TV system.  I'm afraid though the 'emotion grabbing drivel' electronic hypnotizer screen has no appeal whatsoever to me. I'm not a regular TV person under normal circumstances and most definitely not when the whole of  universal creation is majestically displayed before me through a panoramic motorhome windscreen.

D'you think Michele is right? 

Perhaps I am y'know. Am turning into one of those recluse type of elderly, eccentric (read, 'daft') grumpy hermits. Ahhhh well! At least I'm enjoying it!

Sticks, Canoes and Midges.

I only went in there for a fibre-glass gel coat repair kit. 

"How come then, Stevey boy, you are now driving away with another new blow up two man canoe?". "Awww, c'mon, give me a break, it was just too good a deal to walk away from!"

I was on my way to Cashel forest to complete my journey from the special beach at Port Lligat in Spain. The three pieces of driftwood faithfully collected from the beach were soon to be resting with Kate at her beautiful spot overlooking Loch Lomond. The Chandlers in Glasgow were on my route and I needed the fibre-glass gel repair kit for a couple of small repairs to Sadie. I was not to know that on display was a really good quality, last of the stock, blow up two man canoe. A good price too which became even less after a bit of bargaining. Well. I just could not resist it. Especially with a trip to the Hebrides coming up and the potential for fun already established over the past few weeks with the little one man canoe.

Budgets? "Errrr yes! They will need to be re jigged a bit......again!

Canoe was duly flung into Sadie and the journey to Cashel continued. A quick lunch conveniently taken during a heavy shower then Tanya and I headed up the track to Kate's bench and memorial spot at the viewpoint.

The views were as usual spectacular. More so as there was a mixture of heavy shower clouds over the hills with equal amounts of sunlight giving a forever changing breathtaking panorama. There was a crowd up there too. Unfortunately they were not there for the panoramic sunshine and cloud driven video show. They were there for my blood! They were serious too and in vast numbers.

Midges!

I was in shorts, short sleeved shirt, sandals and carrying an umbrella to fend off the showers. There was no doubt about it. I was manna from heaven for these squillions of voracious Scottish Midges.

I did reverently place the sticks. I did manage a short reflection but then had to move swiftly as they were literally covering me and biting like hell. Tanya was also getting affected so was equally pleased to be moving which thankfully gave us some relief from the hovering clouds of sharp jawed and blood lusting terrorists of the Scottish heather. As I write this my arms, legs and face are like pin cushions with little red Midgy bites.

A different visit but with mission achieved and still only late afternoon. I had booked a site for the night just across the road at the Caravan and Camping Clubs Forestry site. This was right on the Loch and thankfully clear of Midges.

Water. New Canoe. I guess it was a 'No brainer' really. An hour later saw Tanya and I on the Loch Lomond island directly across from the campsite. New Canoe was OK!  Swim in the Loch was OK too and gave relief and curative balm to a skin hot and stressed with the effort required in dealing with the recently experienced Midge holocaust.

I am informed the Outer Hebrides are not too bad in respect of Midges!

Hmmmmm! I'll let you know.

Still away with Grandchildren

"Grampeeeee!"  The look said it all as Jenna screamed at me. The largish stone aimed and delivered and causing large splash just by her had the desired effect. Hilarity all round as Grampy was once again admonished as the wicked purveyor of unpleasant and scary happenings.

I was away this time with Grandchildren Mia and Jenna on our way North West to the silver sanded beaches of Arisaig & Mallaig. The weather forecast indicated 'dry', always a bonus in Scotland, and parents Kirsten and Kevin indicated no rush to return them. Hmmmm!

Sainsbury for supplies, Dalrigh car park for lunch. The afternoon saw us over Rannoch moor, through Glen Coe and then over the Corran ferry where upon disembarking we hung a left. Hey presto, wild camping for the night on the edge of Loch Sunart at Aberay forest car park.

Graham the Kayaker arrived later and pitched his tent. I was quite glad to see that as the 'No overnight camping' sign was clearly displayed. It is always good to be in the company of other like minded mature, OK elderly, camping rebels. Graham was grateful for the invite to Sadie for tea, chat and escape from the evenings dose of midges. He seemed exhausted so it was no surprise when Mia spotted a note outside Sadie the next morning. Poor Graham had suffered his third bad night of chest pains and had decided to leave early, head home and see his doctor.

Our departure was much later. Lunch though was a pleasant affair on the sun blessed seafront car park at Arisaig village after a pleasant ride through stunning scenery with the mountains on either side of the single track roads brooding omminously under their blanket of stubborn grey cloud.

Two days of glorious sunshine have now been enjoyed at a campsite right at the end of the road leading to 'Back of Keppoch'. We are parked next to the silver and pink sanded beach amid, and to the delight of the girls, coves, rock pools, clear water, and safe paddling. In short a children's paradise. Canoe has been inflated and the girls plus the neighboring vans two girls have all 'had goes'. I have even managed a good paddle around some of the little rocky islands that eventually become part of the main beach as the tide recedes.

A delightful spot and to be recommended. The views alone are five star. They really do reinforce my love of Scotland. When the sun shines there is quite simply no place more beautiful.

Tomorrow we head back and there will be a tinge of sadness for me. As I headed north from Salisbury I had mixed feelings about 'having' the grandchildren. Bit of grumpy old pensioner syndrome I guess. Well; how that has changed eh!  They have all been different but each one a delight and without doubt they have given me far more unexpected pleasure and joy than I deserve. Kate, I know would have loved this time with every fibre of her being. I've said it before and I make no excuse for repeating it. I am just so privileged to be living this way.

So thanks to all my grandchildren, OH! And thanks to Dad Chris too. You were also fun to have aboard and that eggy bread for breakfast was yummy!

Sunset & away with Grandchildren.

To the left of Sadies panoramic windscreen the three bladed electric dance of the Whitelees forest wind turbines. To the right a falling away of the hill to the Clyde valley, Glasgow and beyond to the Campsie and Dumbarton hills.

In the centre the best show on earth. A setting sun sliding between rolling banks of eastward bound Cumulus. The ever deepening red and gold depths walking across the landscape on slanting heaven given rays of joyful light.

This ability to park Sadie facing west in order to collect another sunset has undoubtedly been one of the greatest joys of my travels. Unlike the TV this nightly show suffers no interruptions from adverts or news bulletins. The occasional break to make a cup of tea maybe. Even then I find myself bending forward to look out in case I miss a particularly stunning moment. It is a show I never tire of and frequently I have passed a good overnight spot ending up in a less suitable but westward facing spot. Invariably the reward has outweighed the disadvantages

Location - Kettrick Bay - Isle of Bute. 31/7/12

Another glorious sunset last night but this time with a difference. Aidan, Rebecca and dad Chris were sharing it with me as we settled for the night next to Kettrick beach here on the Isle of Bute. A difference indeed for myself and Tanya to share our home with guests. But what a good time we've had paddling our blow up canoe, flying the kite and revelling in Scotland at it's best. Calm, warm and dry. You cannot ask more than that when this far North and West.

The rain very conveniently delayed it's arrival until late this evening which is fine as tomorrow is our return ferry trip and home to an anxious Mum. Michele dared let her two treasures be taken away in a house on wheels by two men daft enough to go swimming in the 'cold enough to instantly deep freeze you' waters of the Clyde Estuary. Hopefully we will return the 'treasures' happy, sunburned and not too badly traumatized.

Location - North again - Oxenhope, Yorkshire.

I seem to be on a 'Relative' trip. Relative meaning kith and kin as opposed to 'relative to this and that.'

I left the comfort and stability of Salisbury a few days ago (19/7/12). The leaving was, as expected, with mixed feelings. I enjoy my time with brother Richard. I feel comfortable and welcomed whenever I am there. Being looked after so well by Richard's carers is also a lovely treat for me. I feel very privileged, and fortunate to be able to enjoy such luxury amid the dysfunction and deprivation of which, on a daily basis we are reminded, surrounds us on all sides.

One such reminder, and a particularly relevant one, came via the radio in Sadie within ninety minutes of leaving Salisbury. I was at Tidworth, having lunch in Tescos parking lot after topping up with a few fresh supplies. Radio 2 was on doing an item about hunger in the world. There was a report of starving and dying children in the Yemen which is awful and horrifying but sadly fell on ears hardened and conditioned to automatic emotional dullness plus a considerable degree of immunity to emotional response. This due to a lifetime of hearing and seeing regularly on TV such harrowing reports. They invariably render me helpless to do anything meaningful about the situation apart from making a charitable donation in order to throw balm and calm at my own disturbed and troubled mind.

The second report however; was from Salisbury and about young Mums who had hit hard times and were going hungry themselves in order to feed their children. That did emotionally affect me. There was I listening to the report and sinking my teeth into a sweet sticky pecan nut cake while in the very town I had just left there was, in this age of modern day social care and responsibility, a young Mum who had not eaten for 5 days because she could only afford enough food for her children.

Tears, personal thoughts, and sadness for all who suffer followed.

A new perspective to my journey perhaps? I don't know but it gave me a determination to at least 'be there' in the best way I can for my grandchildren. Even if that means something as menial as just writing a blog so they can keep up with, and perhaps be mentally fed and encouraged by their totally mad motorhome travelling Grampy.

So; onto Swindon to touch base with two of my grandchildren and then a whole evening with my step grandchildren, their Mum and Dad and a very nice 'Harvester Pub' meal.

The next day found me in Derbyshire for an overnight with my cousin David and his wife Debbie. More stories and more appreciation of just how difficult the so say 'normal' task of raising children can be. An added dimension to this visit was a guided tour of David's veterinary practice in the near by village of Ashby. Impressive and nice to be on the vets side of the counter for a change without a sick Tanya. Credit card still got a bashing though as I topped up Tanya's flea and tick treatments taking advantage of the very generously offered staff discount.

On again to Oxenhope, Yorkshire to meet younger brother Robert, wife Alison, her sister Penny and husband Chris plus various children and wives. A sloped road in front of their house became home for Sadie, Tanya and myself for two nights with Tanya charming everyone and deciding she very much liked the sofas.

From Yorkshire via the hills and dales to Stavely in the Lake District to stay with old friends. Finally to this wild camping spot in the depths of the Scottish Borders for a quiet night before heading north to East Kilbride.

Interesting little spot this and found due to me being tired, missing the sat nav cue, and seeing just the right sort of level gateway. Everywhere was very wet so a level gateway with a firm hardcore base was very welcome indeed. Especially as Mr farmer came by shortly after I parked. He stopped, chatted and thankfully said. "No, I caaant sees no problem bein there the one night."

A few minutes later we came across a ford as I walked Tanya down the sharp zig zag road. "Phew," I said as I looked at the torrent of swiftly flowing water swollen by, as Mr farmer had explained, four days of rain. There is no way I am going to risk driving Sadie through that. Guess tomorrow it is back the way we came for a few miles.

For now though this spot is very very peaceful and it's not raining. (Tues 24/7/12)

Sick dog walking.

Hmmmm! I thought, she is right. " Well Tanya"  I said, "I guess I did hurt you, by driving a motorhome on top of you an all that, but doggy, you ain't daft when it comes down to knowing where I hurt."

I, of course, like Tanya, suffer great pain in my hip area, particularly the left hand pocket region where my credit card lives snuggled neatly in my wallet.  

Guess where we were as I was feeling this pain? 

'Yes you and Tanya are right?'  The vet's again, of course! And what was I being advised to do?

Organise some expensive moving floor doggy hydrotherapy to kick start Tanya's brain into four legged mode.

Tanya was healthy and her leg was healing well. But use all four legs ..... naaah! Why bother when you can manage perfectly well with three. Try as I might I did not seem to be able to persuade her to walk using her injured leg.

So. Out from the vet's we go and back into Sadie to ring round the Doggy Hydrotherapists recommended. As luck would have it 'Top Dog' in Andover had a free appointment that very afternoon.

 "OK, we are on our way." Says I.

A couple of days have passed since that first appointment with Sara and Maggie at Top Dog. I am, however; very pleased to announce Tanya's initial and reluctant Immersion into a large fish tank complete with warm water and moving floor has proved highly successful. Tanya is now starting to walk with all four legs and, I hope, another couple of sessions plus regular short walks should very quickly get her back to normal.

One of our short walks was from 'Wrays Hill' near to where we had been staying with my sister and family for a couple of days. As we drew in to the 'Wray Hill' car park there was this wonderful motorhome conversion of a vintage Bedford Green Goddess fire engine with modified caravan perched atop. I managed to chat to the couple who owned her and who were being hassled by the traffic cops for some infringement of the law somewhere. Mr owner did not seem overly hassled and intimated this was a common occurrence. 

" They all get bogged down in the end as no one, including DVLA can decide what vehicle this is."

Certainly his strategy of sitting with cup of tea high in the, difficult to access, living area while Mr Plod stood outside trying to fill in forms and having to shout up to him for information...... weeeelll .... put it this way...... as I left Mr Plod was looking none too happy with his lot!

I kept my eyes firmly averted as we drove slowly by. I did not want a frustrated and 'wound up' traffic cop turning his attention my way.

3 legs n one spare and Sophie.

29^th June 2012 – Location – Comfy chair at Richard's home in Salisbury with Sadie parked up outside.

Yes. This really is quite cosy and welcoming and just as before I left the UK last February. Both Tanya and I enjoy our time here at Salisbury and really appreciate the hospitality. There is a difference this time though. I notice I have been reluctant to completely move out of Sadie, my home for the last 6 months. I am sleeping in the sumptous guest suite and spending most of my time with Richard in his home. Mornings though see me getting up, taking Tanya for a walk and then breakfasting and spending time in Sadie.

As indicated in the previous blogs. I am here for a reason. Tanya's recuperation back to fully functioning four legged dog. She is doing very well. The vets prognosis this morning was positive and signaled the next stage as 'Go Go Go!

'Go Go Go'; means that now is the time to disturb the mental condition Tanya is happy with; which is …. '3 legs n one spare is OK n guess we'll just get on with that.' I  somehow have to now intercede and change it to ….. 'Ok, Ok ! I get the message, 4 legs is go, 3 is soooo NOT Go Go Go!'

This is to be done over the next few weeks by gentle walking and increasing, by various methods her use of the injured leg. One tip I have been given is baby socks. Insert some sharp stones in one and fit it securely to her one good rear leg. This should encourage her to use her dodgy leg a little more. On the other hand it could be, and was, a good excuse to sit on doggy bum and spend a few minutes chewing baby sock off. Much more fun!

If all fails then more money needs to be thrown at the problem and in turn Tanya gets thrown into a Hydrotherapy pool for some doggy paddling exercises. I am not sure my credit card will sanction that one so am keeping silent in case credit card hears and gets the jitters. Best to surprise the poor little plastic being at the last moment with a quick and definite thrust into the dreaded machine rapidly followed by pin number before it realizes and starts curling up it's corners in violent plastic protest.

Certainly Tanya is benefitting from having a 'non moving floor' combined with a regular walking route around the local 'Middle Street Meadow.' She is back to climbing up and down stairs but not yet able to leap in and out of Sadie or, once in, jump up to her rightful place on the passenger seat. She has discovered however; that a bungalow beautifully converted for wheelchair use with liberal amounts of slippery wooden floors is a trifle difficult to negotiate with only three legs. She is getting there though and has no problem in rapidly moving to the kitchen once Yvanna or Jurate, Richard's carers, start to prepare food.

Tanya has also met Sophie while out walking. Sophie's mistress coincidentally is a local lady who owns a motorhome and has travelled the western Isles in it. Something I hope to do. She in turn was equally interested in my going 'Fulltime' in a motorhome and travelling on the continent. Well; such a meeting naturally prompted a wish to know more and so, and with much ribbing and hilarity from both my brother, partner, and the assembled bridge foursome, I now have, 'a date'. I on the other hand will look forward to a day trip out as passenger in a very different and smaller motorhome.

….. date indeed.......... Hmmmmph!!!!

Doggy Op & all day breakfast.

"We've used this spot two or three times before."
"Ahh! And you've not been moved on at all?"
"No. Never had any bother at all."

This conversation with the young couple in their smart red van conversion camper van made me feel a lot more comfortable about wild camping on this Wiltshire Council car park. Especially as it had a 'no overnight camping' sign, was near to Avebury stone circle and time-wise near to Summer Solstace and weird and wonderful crop circle time. It was between Walkers hill and Knap hill on the Marlborough Downs.

I was here for a reason. I had arrived back in the UK a few days ago and gone straight to the 'Companion Care' vet in Salisbury for a consultation as to the best way to get Tanya's dislocated hip sorted once and for all. I was expecting her to be going in for an op the next day and then to convalesce at my brother's house in Salisbury.

Hmmmm! Expectations eh!

The vets opinion and clinical advice did not meet my expectations but was the best clinical option for Tanya. I left having taken her advice and booked an appointment for an operation with a specialist Orthopedic vet 25 miles away in Devizes for the following Monday morning.

I tucked Tanya gently under my arm and walked back to Sadie. Now I swear. During that brief walk I could feel pain coming from my 'hip' pocket, where I keep wallet and credit card, as it digested the words vet, orthopedic, specialist and operation.

For now though, we are, peaceful, calm and parked up for the night not too far from Devizes and the vets premises. I felt more comfortable doing it this way rather than driving 25 miles from my brother's home in Salisbury during rush hour/school Mum time on a Monday morning. Especially as I am anxious over the operation and do not want Tanya reacting too, or picking up, my anxiety.
_-_-_-_-_-

Oooh! that was a treat! My first Morrison's all day breakfast since Dec 2011 when we left Scotland. I have to admit Morrison's of Devizes do a cracking one too. Not to be repeated on a regular basis but well deserved on this occasion when a bit of personal TLC was required after leaving Tanya at the vets for her operation.

A professional and confidence giving consultation was had with the vet. All options were discussed and a balance between 'best for Tanya' and 'financial sensibility' was agreed. What that means is as the state of the dislocated joint is seen the vet now has a clear choice of options to consider.

My hip pocket developed sharp pains again!

I will now head back out to the downs for a walk. It will help pass the time and also work off the inevitable  'just want to sit and sleep' feeling, which invariably follows a copious Morrison's all day breakfast.

Here's hoping n praying all goes well for Tanya.
_-_-_-_-

Back now in Salisbury with one 'done' and dozy Tanya. No drama and no difficult choice for the vet. It was a clear and simple case of remove the 'ball' of the joint and put her back together. The work now, over the next few weeks will be to work Tanya slowly and steadily toward using and developing her fourth leg rather than continuing with just three, which she was getting on well with and starting to regard as normal.

Guess it is now settle down here in Salisbury for two to three weeks of doggy TLC. I also get some as well. Iwona (ivana), Richards carer is quite happy to cook for me as well. That alone will be a lovely treat for me.

And the credit card?  ........ In severe shock!

Trouble & decisions.

"Tanya stay! what the ***** you're leg, it's wrong, the hip joint is out again is'nt it!"

I could not believe what I was seeing. We were in 'Notre Dame St Mort". Nothing special about the place apart from it was in the Vendee area and on our way north and had a convenient Aire where we could stop the night.

It had been an OK days drive but through some horrendous rain which made it awkward to walk Tanya as I was supposed to be keeping her bandages dry. There had been one small walk earlier where both her legs were fine. But here we were in the late afternoon with one leg at a peculiar angle and Tanya hopping around on 3 legs. She was not looking too happy about it either.

I was pretty well knocked sideways by this latest turn of events. I did not know what to do and would have been quite happy at that point if the world just went away and stopped troubling me. I'd had enough, was tired, hungry and pretty low.

I was also reluctant to go back to Eymet. Tanya was now going to need another operation and this latest disaster was probably due to a moving motorhome not being the ideal place for doggy convalescent care. I needed a stable base.

Map out, hmmmm! Nearest is Ian and Brownie's place at 'Redon' in Brittany. I had met them back in March on the Loire and they left me with a phone number and an open invite to visit any time. I phoned them and a plan was soon in place. An appointment with a local vet near Redon to see where we go from here.

Food, bed, a cuddle with Tanya, who apart from having a dangly leg was not in pain and managing ok. Up early next morning to drive the 140km to Redon.

That's when the next disaster hit. My phone blared at me with a warning I had used fifty quids worth of mobile data and Vodafone, thank goodness, had stopped it at that. My phone had somehow been hacked and someone is stealing my data allowance. Just what I needed along with Tanya and continuing heavy rain. I still have not figured it out but by altering a couple of settings I have managed to stop it for now.

By this time I am starting to question just who the hell has got it in for me up there in the thundery heavens.

We make it to the vets and x ray confirms hip joint is once again dis-located. It seems in small dogs this is not uncommon even when pinned. The final alternative, I am told, is removal of the ball end on the femur (thigh bone) and let the muscles and ligaments heal and hold the bone in place on their own. For small dogs this works well, I was informed. This was confirmed by a phone conversation between this vet and Mme Crochelet in Eymet. I was sent away with a recommendation to return to Eymet and a distinct impression Mr Redon vet did not want the job.

In despair I then went round to Ian and Brownies lovely home where I was welcomed and we all three thrashed out the various scenarios available. In the end and after phoning the Pets at Home vets in Salisbury I decided a return to the UK was best. Tanya was travelling OK. She was not in pain or stressed and a recuperation base in Salisbury where I could stay with my brother Richard seemed to me to be the best option for Tanya.

Online we go. Brittany ferry Cherbourg to Poole is booked. Back to vet next morning for worming tablet and doggy passport signed by vet to enable Tanya's return to the UK.

So here we are. Parked by a harbour wall just west of Cherbourg on a sunny and warm evening. Ferry is tomorrow morning (Thursday 14/6).

UK here I come. Sad but necessary and only a couple of weeks before my planned return. I will be back. Despite the difficult times of the last week or so there is still so much more of France I want to see.
Let us just hope while reflecting on my present run of misfortune, the ferry stays afloat tomorrow!

Tall story and cleared for take off!

Hmmmm! I'm not sure I completely believe that I thought. But I kept the rapt attention and flabbergasted look because it was such a lovely story and obviously meant a lot to this Dutch couple who lived Locally. As they left I continued to fill Sadie with clear cool spring water from the 'washer women' grotto just 5 minutes from our overnight spot of the last few nights by Lac Lessouroux.

The story was that the old washer women stones belonged to the individuals who once regularly used them and their names were engraved on them. The Dutch couple had two grandchildren named Janu and Isa who lived in Holland. One day on a walk they had come across the washer women grotto and been amazed to find that one stone had the name Janu engraved on it while it's neighbour had the word Isa. They could not believe it and of course rang their son in Holland to tell him and that he must come visit and see. He had never seen the grotto and was an infrequent visitor to his parents new home.
A really lovely story and one the Dutch gentleman was just a little too eager to tell me and I noticed his wife nodding her head and agreeing with dutiful silence. 

Once they were out of sight I went back to the stones to have a closer look. They were certainly genuine, old and well used washing stones with indentations worn into them from the knees of many washer women. The names though. Hmmmm! One had a number engraved on it which was difficult to decipher as it was so worn. Some of the others also had marks on them which at some time could well have been names or numbers. Sure enough though two neighboring stones had the names Janu and Isa engraved on them. They were easily readable and it was quite apparent the engravings were not many years old. It looked as though they had been roughly chiseled out not too long ago in the dead of night by torchlight.

Oh! Wicked and skeptical me!!  As I said though, a lovely story and one that, for whatever reason, meant a lot to the storyteller.

Next stop was Mme Crochelet in Eymet 10 minutes down the road. She was the vet and hopefully was going to give us clearance to move on. Tanya was much improved after her operation and was once again using her dislocated leg albeit with caution at this early stage.  

She had also had some extra TLC from an American lady who was an energy healer of animals. She was on the retreat at Plum Village and had generously offered a healing to Tanya. Whether you believe in such capacities or energies or not makes no odds. What I saw was Tanya immediately take to Lisa, remain totally still and look intently at her as if in conversation which, as far as Lisa was concerned, they were. Tanya has since come on leaps and bounds. Of course it could have been the anesthetic wearing off as well. Who knows. She was well on the mend and that was all that mattered.

There was another emergency at the vets so things got delayed till the afternoon. To pass the time we popped across to 'Kismet' the cafe owned by Paul and his wife. They informed me he was doing a fish and chip supper evening at a pub in the next village and I was welcome to pop along that evening.

Back to the vets and 'clearance for take off' plus some extra pills was given. It was really too late for travelling on so we moved to 'Lauzon' in good time for our fish and chip evening meal. Yummy it was too. The place was crowded out with Brits and is obviously a regular social venue for the local and numerous Brit population.

Back to Sadie via a stroll round 'Lauzon' a very pretty village. The weather broke overnight and our northward journey resumed the next morning in heavy and continuous rain.

 
I am happy to report we have made it to 'La Palmyre' on the Atlantic coast below La Rochelle where the weather is blustery but sunny. On saying that 22 degrees feels quite cold after the 25 to 28 degree temperatures of the last few days.
We will move on again tomorrow.

Tanya ongoing.

600 euros, I thought. I'm as well forking that out here as in the UK where it would be the same, but in sterling and probably a lot more too.

We were on our 2nd visit to the vet who was confirming my suspicion that the hip joint had dislocated again. This can very easily happen and when it does the only way to properly deal with it is for Tanya to have an operation to insert a synthetic ligament held in place by 2 pins. This ensures the joint will then remain 'located' giving the natural ligaments and muscles time to heal and strengthen.

The vet also apologised for not giving me an explanation about the blood around her mouth at the time of the accident. She showed me an area of empty gum where her frantic yapping and biting had dislodged some teeth. I felt bad enough about my nearly killing her anyway. This information just made me feel worse.

So. Back to our wild camp spot by 'Lac Lesccouroux' which now looks like it is going to be 'homebase' until the vet is satisfied we can move on. Frustrating but nothing I can do about it.

Tanya's op is at 9.30am tomorrow morning at the vets surgery in Eymet (prnce - Amy.) Which is 5minutes down the road.  There could be worse places to stay for a while than a warm, sunny and sleepy but full of character little Dordogne town. It is very 'UK' too with 12% of the local residents being British which during the summer months rises to 40%.

This was certainly apparent as I Lunched in the same cafe as yesterday but this time without trauma or the ladies from Plum Village. The cafe is owned and run by an English couple and was full with a mix of local British speaking people plus UK holiday makers. It also had free wi fi and I now finally have a working Co Pilot sat nav system back on my phone.

-  -  -  

Thurs June 6th. - Tanya is now a metal dog! Well she has two steel pins in her with a bit of stainless steel wire between them securing her thigh bone firmly but flexibly to her hip.

Steve is now broke!  Well not exactly but June's budget has been blown out the window. I don't mind and It is not a major worry. As I look at Tanya now, fast asleep on the passenger seat, I cannot help but feel 'shite' as it was all my fault.

I think my body also has gone into 'lets just stop shall we while I replace that adrenalin'. I'm exhausted. Could also be something to do with me doing about 25 k on the bike today in 28 degree heat. I had to do something as I could not just sit around and worry about Tanya all day. Good ride though which affirmed again what a lovely area this is. I can see why it is such a popular area for Brits to move to. Came across a lovely little grotto at St Sulpice, only 5 mins from where we are, with old wash stones still in place. I backed Sadie down there later, topped her up with fresh spring water and did a wee bit of light washing myself.

We have another appointment with the vet for Saturday morning. She will check things out and if all Ok will give me paperwork so I can move on. The paperwork is to explain to the next vet exactly what has been done and what needs to be done. Ie: removal of stitches in 10 days.

Overall, and fingers crossed, my experience of French vets has been positive and fairly priced. I certainly do not feel I am being ripped off and I do like the way everything is on site and open. Madame Crochelet has made a point all the way through this saga of explaining everything to me and backing it up with Tanya's actual X ray and scan pictures.

Ah well. I'm for ma bed. Ah'm shattered. Let's see what tomorrow brings.

Tanya Accident.

"Oh my God!" I shouted as I yanked the handbrake on, jumped into the drivers seat, started Sadie up, crammed her into reverse gear and flung her backwards.

The frantic and alarming yelping from underneath Sadie meant only one thing and I instantly knew what that one thing was. Tanya was lying under the rear wheel as I released the handbrake to let Sadie roll forward and off the levelling ramps.

I rushed round to where she was expecting the worse. It was not good. She had managed to move from under the wheel once I had reversed but her rear end was obviously seriously injured and there was blood around her mouth.

For the next hour all was a blur but at the end of it Tanya had been tranquillized on a veterinary table in 'Eymet' and the vet was doing a full examination. I was still in shock and still expecting the worse.

I waited anxiously as Tanya, now asleep was taken down stairs to the vets operating room. About 10 minutes later I was informed it looked, at that early stage, as though she had dislocated her hip but all x-rays and scans were showing no other damage. There was nothing more I could do till later in the afternoon when I was to come back to collect her.

The vets surgery was in the small but pretty main square of 'Eymet' and I informed them I would remain in the square if they needed me. I headed for a cafe in a sort of a daze and spoke to a lady, whom I thought was to do with the cafe. Turned out she was not but she was on the Plum Village retreat at the women's centre. It was a 'retreat day off' and there were quite few of them in town. She invited me to have coffee with her and unload my stress. Phew! What relief and for a time tears flowed. She was with 2 others who soon joined us and I got the support and 'mothering' I needed to release the trauma of the morning.

They stayed with me until I went back to the vets where thankfully the mornings diagnoses was confirmed and a very sorry looking Tanya was drowsily pleased to see me. Her hip had been re-located and she was tightly bandaged.

All 5 of us then boarded Sadie and Tanya was carefully laid on her soft bed on the floor. I then drove Roberta, Alexis and Aurolla back to the womens centre where they insisted I wait while they checked out the feasability of me staying overnight in the car park. I felt uncomfortable about this so was pleased when the answer was negative. To be quite honest I needed to get away from Plum Village.

I'm still local to 'Eymet' as Tanya needs to go back to the vet but I'm where I feel at home. Wild camped by a lake with no one else around and where I can give my full attention to Tanya.

Phew! What a traumatic day. I am just so thankful. It could have been a lot worse.

On the edge & fresh Cherries.

Location - 'Plum Village Buddhist community' at 'Thenac' Dordogne

We nearly did'ny get here either. However; I summoned up tremendous discipline and said goodbye to Francoise and John and their boat, caravan and Landrover at 'le Mas-Argenais' on the Garonne canal. We'd left Lac L'uby and needed a lunch spot and a Tanya walk. Where better than by the side of a French canal on the edge of a pretty village with lots going on.

As usual Tanya grabbed Francoise's attention as we strolled up the canal watching the hilarious fun being had by a school party in canoes playing a game of 'canoe basket ball'. It seemed to be organized by the elder boys and girls and there was as much throwing of younger members plus themselves in the water as there was serious canoe work. There was one teacher there with a whistle but no one seemed to take any notice. Great fun to watch.

John had met Francoise 8 years ago in France. He was separated, retired so sold his business and moved over. They now live either on their boat or in the caravan which, conveniently was parked on the side of the towpath by their boat. As John said. "you would never be able to do that in the UK."  A pleasant couple of hours were had while Tanya and Francoise's Daschund checked out all the dogs bringing their owners walks along the towpath. Between watching that and the canoe hilarity plus the relief of sitting in the shade in the 30 degree  temperature while putting the world to rights. Well, I was seriously tempted to just stop there the night. But as I said, serious discipline was employed and we said our goodbyes. A dangerous discipline testing moment I can tell you! I just love these French hello's and goodbyes. Especially so when it is with a rather scantily clad, well proportioned and 'all embracing' female who is saying, "Eeet was joooost so loveelee toooo ave meet yoooo!". Hmmmm! Me? No I don't think so. But Tanya yes. Ho hum eh!

And ....... We still managed to arrive at 'Plum Village', settle in and eat before the evening meditation. Fancy that eh! We actually managed to get where we had planned to be. Most unusual for me.

4/6 - Plum Village.
I guess trying to explain my spiritual journey is, however I word it, going to sound like preaching or pontificating. So let us just say that being here is very special for me and the meditations I've attended along with a wonderful Dharma talk (teaching) by Thic Nhat Han himself have put a few more pieces in the wonderful and forever expanding jigsaw of life.

I love Buddhism but it is the simple, straightforward, and well laid out Psychology of it that is my 'thing'. I'm not into the ritual or the religious aspects of it, or any other belief system or structure come to that. I relish being on the edge, in the area of 'don't know' and I guess a lot of that comes from my years of Counselling.

On the edge is exactly what this visit to Plum Village has been. There have been two aspects to it. The first is we were literally parked at the furthest edge of the field cum car park and right by a big tree to get as much shade as we could. This was again because Tanya is not allowed into the community area proper. It was unintentional but the particular position we chose gave us prime viewing but  kept us separate from all the comings and goings.

The second aspect was there was a large retreat happening with scientists and Buddhist practitioners from all over the world coming together. They were all grouped into families. A lone and scruffy individual homeless wanderer who had'nt paid his dues would of course be a bit disruptive to the proceedings.

So it has been a wonderful time of being able to attend the open meditations and teachings with afterwards good walks around the beautiful surrounding vineyard countryside with Tanya. My open discourse, the fresh understanding and insights have been heard adequately by Tanya herself and the surrounding trees meadows and beautifully laid out vineyards. Much better than deep group discussion and navel gazing. Been there done that. It was good and right at the time but not now.

And to top it all tonight's desert was chocolate sauce, meringues and fresh cherries straight from the tree in the hedge right by us. Yummy yummy!

Ouch & moving North

Ouch that hurt!  30/05. Location - 'Salles-d'Armagnac'

Oh I am definitely into 'poor me' at present. My bump down the high Pyrenees has left me with a strained back muscle of the type that wherever you move it gives you a painful twinge. 

No problems thinks me cos we're 'truckin it' north serious serious like for the next couple of days. "Ouch!" Cries me every time brake has to be applied. Ahhh well! Could be worse. Waking up to a warm sunny morning and breakfast outside here at 'Salles d'Armagnac' makes up for it somewhat.

We just arrived here last night simply because it was there, right on the side of the road with a convenient, flat, surfaced area inviting us in. A walk into the village proper a little later revealed a delightful little church by a lake.

Moving on further North today. The usual has happened. We have not got far!

Location - 31/05 - About 20km up the road on a campsite at 'Lac de L'Uby' which is right next to a spa centre / village called 'Barbotan'.

We were doing OK then I spotted a Patissiere with someone coming out complete with Baguette. Stomachs always react quicker than brains so bread arrived on the lunch menu of the mind and quick as a flash Sadie was in there and parked. The place looked closed with the main shop entrance all shuttered up. Never mind, thinks I, it did look as though the guy with the baguette came from round the back. Off I goes and sure enough the backdoor is open. The place is big as though it produces wholesale as well as for its own retail shop. There was a line of baguettes on a big stainless steel table and three or four guys all dressed up in hygienic bakers gear behind a glass door doing, I presume, what bakers do.

I am spotted and out comes young French baker man all in white.
"Patissiere est ferme monsieur.""
"Ahhh! Oui, OK. Un baguette sil vous plais?" Says I.
"Monsieur, le patisserie est ferme." Says he.
Turning to go I say: "Ok, merci beaucoup, no problem."
"Ahh monsieur, voulez vous un baguette?"
"Errr oui, sil vous plais." I answer getting more confused by the minute and not quite knowing whether this guy was genuine or taking the French piss out of me.
"Un baguette 1.35 euro sil vous plais monsieur."
I paid said 1.35euro to young French baker then decided to have my own bit of fun. Putting both thumbs up in the 'yeah man' gesture I look him straight in the eye and say. "Magic!"
"No, no, no monsieur le patisserie est ferme."
I left at that point while still in possession of my own sanity and with one fresh baguette firmly grasped in one hand.

Tanya was by now needing a walk and the Michelin 1cm to 2km map was showing a nice lake just around the next corner. Using maps again is rendering the Co Pilot sat nav redundant. Especially as it is turning out to be a nightmare trying to re install it onto my phone in a format where it recognizes me as the legitimate user/owner rather than regarding me as some illegal hacker trying to use it for free.

Map was right. Sadie is duly parked and off we go for walkies. "Hey! this is nice Tan and would you just look at that, motorhomes in a campsite right by the lake."

Well I mean, what would you do? My back was giving me jip. My bedding was developing an odor, my wardrobe was nearly all in the black plastic washing bag, it was bloody hot, and it looked as though paradise was right there in front of my eyes.

So we walked round to the entrance and booked ourselves in for a couple of nights. At reception they handed me a site plan with the available pitches marked and off we went to choose the lakeside pitch we at present occupy.

While we were walking round Tanya had no lead on. Remember; the original intention was to give her a quick walk before driving on. So I'm ambling along slowly to be suddenly surprised by Tanya rushing at a duck perched on the lakeside. The duck of course skillfully launches itself out into the lake and out of trouble. Tanya never learns!

However: This time Tanya gets a shock. The duck was perched on the edge of a very steep sided, full of water culvert running at right angles from the lakeside. In her rush she had not seen this and no way could she stop. In fact she went head first into the ditch, completely immersed herself, and came up heading lake-wards with paws going like mad. She soon turned and headed back up the culvert to where she could scramble out onto dry ground.

I was curled up with laughter and likewise a French fisherman who had also witnessed this unexpected and sudden hilarious drenching. Tanya meanwhile was shaking herself off and looking round as if to say, "I was just testing y'know."

"Aye right Tanya. Course you were!"