Thick fog & duff fridge.

I knew there was a 'certain death' drop to the right of me but for once I was quite happy to throw caution aside and fling Sadie as near to the edge as possible. I really did not expect to meet a f**king large tourist coach on such a high and narrow mountain road. Especially not this morning when damp and clinging white-out mountain fog had rendered visibility down to ten metres. We lurched past each other with inches to spare and nothing to the left of Sadie except swirling white mist. A blessing in disguise as if the weather had been clear and I could see the bottomless drop to my left I may not have been so keen to fling Sadie to the very edge of the tarmac and her tyres ability to remain upon it. Mind you if it had been good visibility we would have seen each other much earlier and I would not have shit myself as I was suddenly and unexpectedly confronted with a pair of big fuzzy and very far apart headlights moving at terrifying speed straight toward me.

It was the second day of High Alpujarras. The scenery was stunning with day one being dullish but with OK vision. After an overnight stop next to a viewpoint we set off hoping the worsening mist and fog would lift. It did'nt. As we got higher the visibility deteriorated. The bus incident did it.

"We're not here for this Tan. We stop!" 

I said. 'Pampaneira' was about 5k further on. The fog was now also rain but worse it prevented me from seeing any place where I could safely perch Sadie. In the end we persevered to 'Pampaneira' where I temporarily squeezed Sadie onto a hotel car park and walked to the village. Thankfully, once there. I located a good safe and level car park. We soon had Sadie hunkered down and there we waited for skies to clear and sunshine to return.

Meanwhile Mr Fridge was becoming extremely huffy about working on gas. I was having to manually operate it whenever we stopped. Even then it was taking me two or three goes before he got the message and fired up. Hmmm! Not good when combined with a driving scare and miserable weather. It was getting me down.

A day can certainly change things. Next morning I sleepily opened Sadie's front blinds. WOW!   Blue sky above. The  whitewashed houses of 'Pampeneira' just below clinging to the steep sides of this the magnificent 'Poquera' gorge. In between the brilliant white and sun kissed snowy peak of 'Mulhacen' with 'Bubion' and 'Capileira', two more higher still mountainside villages, beckoning me on to re-visit and re-call the weeks walking holiday Kate and I enjoyed back in 2006.

A good dose of Swearing at Mr Fridge miraculously seemed to also wake him up to the fact this was a good day. He fired up reluctantly and for once kept going. We spent the morning in the high villages where fond memories were re-called. June it was. Warm sunny June was the month Kate and I were there. This however; was Februrary, high in the mountains virtually on the snow line. Enough. It was time to drop to lower levels and some warmth.

'Orgiva'. Ahhhh! Sitting in the main Plaza with coffee and a musician originally from Northumberland whom I'd met ten minutes earlier. One of his neighbours then arrived, a Swiss guy with a twelve string guitar. They were both soon jamming together to everyones delight. The day was definitely improving. I debated whether to stay but in the end decided to move on. A little too much 'in your face' evidence of booze, drugs and skint drifters. I expect it would have been fine but after several days out in the contemplative wild I was not ready for this lively, busy, artisian and youthful town. We ended up west of Granada on a huge empty, 'someone made a packet out of stitching up the E U', industrial estate at 'Escuzar'. Beautiful level road, not a soul in site and a view of the snow covered Sierra Nevada to die for. Only one thing wrong. Mr Fridge stubbornly and with finality, refused to operate on gas. I tried several times to coax him into action but in that part of brain that just always bloody well knows I knew, with certainty, the day of fridge doom had arrived. A glumness returned.

"There's only one thing we can do Tan", I said. "Lets make a cup of tea, feed you and then have a think about how much of the freezer content we can eat in one night!"

The day however; ended well. Yes, well. Listen and I'll tell all.

A cup of tea. A think. Toolbox out and back of fridge to bits. A good dose of TLC plus clean everything scrupulously before careful re-assembly. Then, and this is the important bit, a few moments of deep, silent reverence with a muttered sincere apology to Mr Fridge for earlier calling into question with loud unsavoury language his impeccable line of ancestry. With breath held and heart racing fingers finally reached out and pressed the start button. Mr Fridge, now highly appreciative of me finally getting the TLC and thorough clean message, fired up with a healthy clunk and has been working faultlessly ever since. Cool huh!
- - -
'Nerja'. Not the most solubrious of stops being a dusty car park between the back of Mercradona supermarket and an elevated section of a busy main road. But it's warm, five minutes from the sea, in among the shops, cafes etc plus several other motorhomes are here too. This will do for tonight. Tanya loves it too. Lots of other dogs plus owners walking by and it is safe enough to leave Sadie's door open for her to scamper off and investigate the newcomers. One of them brought a very attractive and sociable young lady along this morning. We were soon watching both dogs, then chatting and then both laughing our heads off as she could speak not a word of English and I was the same with Spanish. Mind you I think she did say, "Manyana camino perro mi amigo?" With gestures that indicated both of us walking and both dogs walking. Hmmmm... I wonder? Maybe I'll just hang around for another day or so. I mean, the sun is out, the beach is good and I fancy another swim .... after the dog walk that is!!

Kaden my Grandson and first, long time wanted, son of son Keith and his lovely wife Justine was Christened a few days ago. It was good to benefit from the wonders of t'internet, courtesy of son Mark, and receive some beautiful piccys of the event from up there in the cold and wet Co Kerry, Ireland.

May his wee smile stay for life.

The 'Other' or paralell journey.

Rain in the night. Snow on the peak above and a weather forcast indicating iffy for the next couple of days. "Well Tanya." I say as I look across at one happy, just fed, curled up and asleep dog on her 'parked up' perch of drivers seat.

We're very wild here high up in the 'Parque natural sta Barbara' East of Granada and just south of 'Baza'. It's quite cold too but Tanya is able to just run free. I literally open the door when I get up and off she goes. Normally I walk with her but it is quite pleasant to occasionally have a lazy morning where I chuck her out for a solo walk. About twenty minutes later she is back waiting patiently outside the door till I let her in when of course she expects her breakfast to be served up pronto.

"Well Tanya, I guess if there is snow on that peak above I suppose I'd better play safe and take the lower pass over the 'Sierra Nevada", don't you think?"

No reply of course but the question refers to the next stage of this wander which is to visit the 'Alpujarras' area on the Southern slopes of the 'Sierra Nevada'. Kate and I spent a week walking in the area back in 2006 and trecked to 'Mulhacen' at 3482m the highest peak in Spain (I think!). I remember it as a beautiful area but for now, I have to crosss the mountains North to South to get there. As I said, with snow on the 2271m peak above us I think a quick scoot East on the A92 to the lower pass over the col near the 1710m peak of 'Montenegro' and on to the village of 'Olhanes' looks favourable.

If I do decide to move on today that is what we will do but there is no guarantee. Reflecting on the last few days, and in particular yesterday, re-inforced the; 'no plan or guarantee, be as it is, spiritual go with the flow' aspect of my wanderings.

The weather has been warm and sunny albeit cool at night. Yesterday I stuck to my promise and did not drive too far. We were soon perched in among fields and irrigation ponds enjoying the afternoon sunshine, just north of  'Bazen'. We were to the east of, and in sight of the hill 'Jabalcon' with atop it a shrine to 'Virgen de la Cabeza'.

"we'll drive round the other side tomorrow Tanya, look at the resevoir (Embalse del Negratin) and drive or walk up to the 'Virgen de la Cabaleza' shrine."

The action / thought seemed to be confirmed in a later, and particuarly deep, meditation. I have spoken of this aspect of my journey previously. It is integral to everything I do. Religion is often, but not exclusively, the way 'this aspect' is talked of or thought about. For me it is more about energy, meetings and 'at peace' levels of body and mind. Religious language and symbolism as opposed to scientific or psychological reference has been, and to a large extent still is, how humankind expresses or explains the unexplainable. That is why I am often drawn to shrines and places of religious expression. These are the places where I, and before me many others, feel energy and are given, for want of a better word, gifts.

And yesterday, once again, it was so. This 'gift' had a wee twist to it. We were on a service road running alongside a large irrigation channel which of course was wending its level contour hugging way around the mountain to where, according to my map, the road to the shrine branched off just before the village of 'Zujar'.

"Uhho! Whats this then Tanya?"

In the middle of the road, hands in pockets and earphones in ears was a cyclist happily weaving his way along the level roadway. There was a sudden and frantic grab for handlebars and swerve to the right as Sadies large white front slowly edged up into his field of vision. A cheery wave was imparted as we passed.

Cue five minutes later. We are stopped admiring the azure blue of the 'Embalse del Negratin' (reservoir) laid out before us. I was to the side of Sadie, having a pee actually, when our friend the surprised cyclist pulls to a halt beside us. He turned out to be a lovely guy. A teacher at a local school who was out on this warm and sunny Saturday for some much needed physical exercise. He could speak good English even though his English teachers assessment was, he told me: 'not good'. I, an acknowledged expert in many languages (NOT!!) assured him otherwise.

We agreed to meet for coffee a little further on at a restaurant where we spent a happy hour or so chatting away. As I said a very genuine Spanish guy who, like myself, was country born and bred and liked nothing better than to be out in it.

We said goodbye and continued only to find every road leading to the shrine was blocked and undergoing repair. The walk from that point would have been major and so we continued on our way. It seems someone had decided a visit to the shrine was not to be. It was not until evening as I reflected upon the day that our 'non visit' and the 'gift' became clear.

You see, I was on my way to visit Mary, mother of, or 'Virgen de la Cabeza' whereas I was instead gifted a meeting with a lovely Spanish guy.

And his name?

'Jesus'.

Yes, his Christian name was Jesus and he has to live with it as he explained to me. I left him my card so, if you read this Jesus please forgive my inference to your name and may you also see our meeting as one example of this area's / earth's powerful, wonderful, and once again for want of a better word, spiritual ability.

Onward & inland

"That, if I may say so, was very nice and it hit the spot well!"

 This said to myself as I pushed away the empty plate, licked my lips and relaxed in my favourite chair, Sadie's turned around passenger seat. Chicken breast, stuffed with Chorizo plus onions and mushrooms cooked for 35 min in a wrap of cooking foil. As reccomended by friend Jurate  back in 'Burriana' where we've been for the last few days.

Our time in 'Burriana', home to Jurate and her family, was relaxing and fruitful. Relaxing as I treated us all to a scrumptious meal out at a local buffet type restaurant. The place was huge and so were we by the time we left. You just have to try everything at a buffet don't you. The stomach may be saying 'no more pleeeease.....' but the eyes ...... well the eyes just see gorgeous and 'must have' food everywhere they look ....so back you go just one more time! The following evening was more sensible. We all enjoyed a meal cooked by Sergio, Jurate's husband. We were then entertained by children Emily and Alexandro's dancing. The stay was fruitful because with Jurate's translation skills I got the puncture in my rear tyre repaired. At a very reasonable price too.

The 'hit the spot' hot meal felt even more delicious as where I am now in 'Alcala del Juca'  is very cold and wet. A pity as this is a stunning location. Fetch it up on Google and you will see what I mean. On our walk round earlier it was winter coat, brolly and avoiding the middle of the steep cliff paths winding up to the castle as they were running with water. The castle was still worth the trek though and I marvelled at how people live very much on top of each other in these Troglydite houses where the back half is dug out of the cliff face. We are parked on a level patch by some flats right under the cliff face and its dug in houses on the opposite bank of the 'river Juca'. No piccy's though. Too dark and wet.

I mused to myself as we drove up here into the 'La Mancha' high plains area that, as usual, I decide to head inland for a while and right on cue the weather turns decidedly Scottish. Ah well! I guess it is still February. Sadie however; is beautifully snug and warm. The specialised small diesel heater I had fitted in the UK by Steve, the Mikuni agent in Southampton has been worth its weight in gold. It quite happily burbles away blowing hot air into Sadie with virtually no drain on the batteries and negligble use of diesel. No more worry about running out of gas trying to keep warm which was previously the only way to heat Sadie. Now I can keep snugly warm on cold dark nights and oven cook a lovely chicken supper. Can't be bad eh?
- - - -
What a stunning drive we've had today. In sunshine too. 'Alcala del Juca' to 'Valdeganga' following the river Juca and it's deep gash of a ravine all the way. Doing such a road in a 3m high and a tad under 7m long motorhome was Ok but I would not have wanted to be any bigger. The road was properly surfaced but narrow in places with huge rock overhangs coming uncomfortably close. What fun though. All the way along more Troglydite houses with quite a few sporting well weathered for sale signs. They would not be my choice of home but as I explored one old and derelict example I could see the advantage of having half your house consisting of cool rock during the fierce heat of a Spanish Summer. The abandoned one I explored was very old and tumbledown with a rush and timber roof and one end for the animals. The two bedrooms were dug deep into the cliff face with blue painted walls/cliff. Fascinating.

A late lunch and a quick walk round the busy and cosmopolitan (read; same as any other city centre) city of 'Albacete' saw us soon being led once again by Mrs Sat nav toward 'Elche de la sierra'. Only we did'nt make it. 'Penas de san Pedro' (yes I know, & I expect Pedro is sick to death of the never ending jokes & innuendos!) hove into view with it's mouth watering rock pinnacle complete with zig zag track to the walled fortifications at the top. Fraid Sadie was promply parked at foot of said rock pinnacle on a very conveniant empty roadway. It was not long before Tanya and I were at the top espying with the Bonnacles  'Albacete' all those miles back across the dry undulating agricultural plains.

OH! And I have not seen another Motorhome since I turned inland from the favoured narrow coastal strip.

A visit to Tosall Gross

Lenny and Win are just that kind of people,  friendly, welcoming, generous and Win's cooking? Well! can you blame me for staying at their villa for a few days rather than just the one which was my original intention.

This morning was a typical example. My plan was to move on. The plan was going well when around mid morning I get out watering can and water container ready to top up Sadies fresh water. We were parked roadside just outside the villa and water top up was all I had to do before being on my way.

"C'mon Tanya. Lets pop into the villa, get this water and say cheerio."

3 hours later after more motorhome chat as they hope to upgrade theirs this year plus some computer sorting out and plus a yummy lunch of cheese and salad rolls I remembered my original intention. We did eventually get away and I reflected happily on an enjoyable 3 day stay as we slowly negotiated the wickedly steep and twisty road to 'Oliva' at the base of the mountain.

Win lost her beloved husband Dave several years ago but not before they had together created their beautiful mountain villa at the 'Urbanization' of 'Tossal Gros' overlooking 'Oliva' and the coast as far North as 'Cullera' and South to 'Denia'.

She eventually decided to move to Spain permanently with new partner Lenny. I met Lenny last year purely by chance while I was wandering around 'Javea'. We got talking about the dogs, as you do. They have a lovely wee Shi-zhu. Tanya and Buster were soon good friends.

They're both involved with a local church and Win runs Burmese cooking classes to raise cash which then goes into feeding the local street people. It's a big English speaking x-pat area and Win tells me there are lots more ladies around than available men. Hmmmm! Best keep moving methinks!

So here we are once again out in the high scrub and forest between 'Llombai' and 'Montjoi'. A roughish but well used track which when Tanya and I walked up it presented us with a delightful spot. Sadie was soon levelled up, parked and cup of tea was enjoyed as we watched the sun drop over the distant hills while in the large and fertile plains below us the lights started to twinkle in the various towns. One small white van passed us early this morning just as I was sleepily pulling old clothes on to take Tanya for her early morning walk. Ablutions you say? On such a beautiful morning they come later. The owner of the white van cheerily greeted us as we passed him later collecting up his baskets full of pine cones. So far he has been the only passing traffic.

This combination of social immersion then 'alone'ness' seems, at present, to meet and satisfy my needs well.  The 'alone'ness' is time for Human 'Being' with meditation, reflection, reading, silence and of course Tanya. The social immersion quickly returns me to normal 'Human'ness' and places my feet firmly back on terra firma.

I guess a superb meal of Cod and Chips from a British owned and run fish n chip shop in 'Moraira' counts as Terra Firma. Lenny & Win recommended it, and they were right too, it was sooo good. Sadie took us all down there and afterwards we took Tanya & Buster for a walk on the beach and around the 'as pattern' Spanish holiday resort Marina full of expensive sleek and obscene looking plastic gin palaces. A little unkind maybe as I do like to walk round these marinas with usually the sailing boats attracting my attention. Especially the more traditionally built ones. I still prefer Sadie though and her ability to effortlessly sail the roads.