Ireland & 'I don't believe it!'.

Struggled I did, really struggled with my tools all cluttering up the floor of Sadie and Tanya giving me bored 'I want a walk' stares. Eventually though I turned on the radio and there it was. A clear and non distorted sound issueing forth from the New speakers neatly fitted and now once again unseen under the replaced dashboard panelling. The dashboard panelling had been the conundrum. How to remove it? I now know, which is a good job as tonight I have had an; 'I do not believe it' moment as one of the new speakers has failed and is now giving out ...... Go on, have a guess...... yup, you've got it...... a highly distorted sound.

Sat here as I am, in Glenariff forest park, County Antrim on this dark, cold night of heavy and continuous rain small things in life, such as a radio speaker giving up the ghost take on quite a significance. I enjoy listening to the radio and my music. It is quite important to me in this small and compressed motorhome world of mine. Now, suddenly it is compromised and has become another job to do and a double expense as with travelling it is once again the case of original retailer now being many miles behind in East Kilbride.

However; despite me also having a head cold all is not doom and gloom. We left the Glasgow area a few days ago spending time enjoying the sunshine as we travelled down the beautiful Ayrshire coast  stopping off at Croy bay to walk the beach along to Culzean castle where lunch was enjoyed. Many happy 'Kate' memories here. A further stop for a cup of tea and Seal viewing just past Girvan allowed arrival at David and Dorothy's beautiful home just in time for a much enjoyed steak pie supper. Their home just above Port Patrick is always an enjoyable visit not only for the delights of meandering around such a lovely and unspoilt harbour but also to catch up on all the gossip and stories of which David and Dorothy (when she can get a word in that is!) revell in. Them being a hop skip and a jump across Stranrear bay from the Cairn Ryan Irish ferry terminal is sort of useful too!

Cairn Ryan to Belfast was an uneventful ferry trip with their new ferry being very well appointed, clean, with sensibly priced meals and free wi fi. Tanya was not allowed to leave Sadie and the vehicle deck but managed fine and I had no loud tannoy announcement requesting my presence to attend one stressed out and noisy dog. She was very pleased to see me at the end of the relatively smooth crossing though.

Sat Nav set for Giants Causeway on the North Antrim coast and off we drive into the persistent heavy rain. Phew! It was bad too with sections of road flooded and in parts starting to lift under the pressure of water rushing off the rain sodden hills. Quite dramatic. We gave up in the end and swung right into Glenariff forest park and a large, sheltered by the trees, car park.  

Full wet gear was flung on including Tanya's raincoat with legs. She looks cute in it but more importantly it does the job and keeps the main part of her body and upper legs dry. Off we went to explore this Glen and the two swollen and rushing rivers deep in it's bowels. Now they were dramatic and two locals I met confirmed this drama when one of them said, "No, never seen anything like it and I been here forty years."

There were timber walkways along some of the really narrow sections of the glen. We walked rapidly over these as the torrent rushing and tearing at the supporting legs looked kind of determined to dislodge them and fling them into the raging brown and foaming cauldron of water and debris coming down from the hills above. Especially at Rainbow bridge which we had to cross. Exciting and scary with a welcome feeling of relief and security as we climbed up the Solid steps the other side which led us away from the noise, soaking spray, and the furious torrent of the death inviting waterfall. Tanya, may I add, was on a short and secure lead all the way.

I'm happy to say I am writing this last little postscript at Giants Causeway. Impressive and refreshing on this dry but cloudy and savagely windy day. The walking route we chose was clifftop. Hmmmm!  We returned to the visitor centre on the lower, shoreside road which was a little less windy but with jaw dropping eye level sight and sound of the huge storm waves rolling in and smashing into the jumbled and jagged hexagonal shoreline protrusions.

Well worth a visit.

Motorhome meet, characters & Andy Murray.

Such a beautiful clear and star studded sky with only the intermittent haze of woodsmoke from the bonfire misting the view at the whim of the breeze. 

"Wow! Did you see that shooting star Trish?" 

She did and reluctantly tore her eyes away from the vista to briefly tend to her expertly set woodland bonfire.

Trish and her self modified transit van complete with woodburner and two dogs were pulled into a convenient spot on a wee road through the forest. I had stopped, as you do, to have a chat which at the offer of a redbush tea had me backing Sadie alongside and disgorging Tanya to meet her two new doggy companions, Kelsey and Merlin. All three dogs were soon best of friends and exploring the forest as Trish and I sipped Redbush tea and, as you do, shared stories.

Trish lived and worked in Dundee and was re visiting some of the camping spots she had used on her epic walk a few years ago from John O Groats to Lands End. A fascinating lady with a fascinating story to tell.

I had some quality beef and lamb burgers left over and cooked up a scrumptious meal with the wild mushrooms Trish had gathered. Agreement was reached that I also do the washing up while Trish, a real outdoors lady, got a campfire going where, after our hot chocolate and tot of whisky we quietly and in hushed awe viewed the universe above us.

I was slowly wending my way back to Glasgow after attending a social weekend at Brin Herb Gardens. Our hosts Angus and Margaret had once again hosted a successful gathering of Motorhomers together with Barbeque and visit to the Dores Inn on the shore of Loch Ness for a very tasty meal.

It was at the Dores Inn where wee whisky drinking civil engineer, and sometime Scottish Buddhist Drew suprised us all by stripping down to swim trunks and leaping into the Loch for a quick swim before the meal. Brrrrrr! For once I was quite happy to see someone else taking the plunge as it was a non sunny day with a cold breeze blowing. He survived and joined us positively glowing & just in time to order his 'todays special' of roast pork loin with an extra portion of the caramalised onion and apple gravy.

Drew and his wee dog Hamish were another two interesting characters. They were on a two week trip around the area in their small camper van which was very basic but again Drew was a real outdoor food forager type of guy whom I was delighted to get to know better as we shared a long walk on the Monday after all the other Motorhomers had left.

I'm now settled for the evening in a Forest car park not too far from Perth. We had a great walk earlier to the forest hilltop and lovely views of Dundee, the Tay Estuary and all the way back to the Cairngorms where we had travelled through since saying cheerio to Trish and her dogs earlier this morning. Poor Tanya is now back to once again having to put up with just me after the last few days of having a real variety of other dogs to converse and sniff bums with.

Well we finally made it back to East Kilbride but not before a visit to Perth Caravans where I drooled for sometime over the motorhomes on display. I left after discussing battery 'happenings' with their service department and decided to wait and see before forking out an uncomfortable two hundred quid for new batteries. I also had a quick look around Sadie as we rolled down the A9 and thought; 

"you're an OK motorhome and you and me has a few years of travelling to do yet." Tanya of course fully agreed with me.

The Dunblane sign hove into view. Well! With Andy Murray just winning his first grand slam and becoming US champion how could I NOT visit. For a town with such tragic a history (1996 Dunblane Massacre) forever lurking in its archives there was a good feeling tinged with poignancy attached to this visit. To walk from the memorial stone in the cathedral to the Andy Murray Olympic Gold painted post box is to walk from a gun enabled tragic waste of human endeavour to the peak of human perseverance and sheer guts. Yes, Dunblane was a vibrant and sun blessed place to be on such a day.

Sadie seemed to roll on a little lighter and faster afterwards and it was not long before we were settled and plugged in on Chris and Michele's driveway. Big hugs and shouts of delight from grandchildren Becks and Aidan made the arrival a welcome return to East Kilbride.

Fishermen (and women) and Gold.

Phew! 

We had abandoned number one plan of heading for John O Groats and opted instead for plan one hundred and six. Get the hell out of the fierce coastal gales and travel inland to a sheltered valley.

The Gillie turned in and parked just in front of us. His two clients and their posh cars with fishing rods neatly stashed on magnetic bonnet and roof brackets also turned in and parked. 

"Uhh ho" thinks me. "Am I in bother for parking here in this lovely sheltered riverside spot in the River Naver valley just below Bettyhill?" 

I need not have worried. Both Gillie and fishermen/women were not in the least bit concerned about my presence. They were in fact quite happy to chat as they busied themselves preparing to fish for more Salmon on this stretch of the river. Seems like it was not the best of days as the water level had dropped seven inches overnight and the bright sunny sky was also not ideal.

The area is very popular with the fishing and over the next few days I got quite used to pulling in to the frequent passing places on these single track roads to let the numerous, and mainly Mercs and Range Rovers pass by, complete with their obligatory magnetic fishing rod carriers.

Oh! The calm, NON 'rock n roll' night of sleep enjoyed at that first delightfully sheltered stop was bliss indeed.

Tanya, next morning, found half a dead sheep and gorged at it for nearly  ten minutes before I found her. Not quite so blissful but thankfully no re-gurgitation inside Motorhome either!

"Wow!" I said. "Is that really proper gold from this river?" 

Ian assured me it was and showed us all the other small vials he had with differing amounts of gold in them. All were dated to show when he had panned it. I was in the Goldfields, as they seem to refer to them up here, above Helmsdale on the Suisgill and Kildonan Burns. Ian regularly panned this area and it soon became apparent that many hours and many tons of riverbed had been moved and painstakenly panned to yield up the small amounts of gold we were looking at. No matter. I had never seen raw gold before and was mightily impressed.

The three tents and parked motorhome on this bend in the road had grabbed my curiosity and seeing as it was late afternoon I pulled in for the night. I was soon in awed conversation with this small group of real characters who were regular visitors to this 1868 goldrush site. Another curious couple on holiday from Essex with their tent soon joined us and a very pleasant evening and next morning were spent swapping stories and lives. Bill, a Scot with Australian roots entertained us in his motorhome in which he lived fulltime with his cross collie dog named Robby. Bill had a murky past attested to as he eagerly showed us his ankle tag explaining that was why he could only travel areas local to Peterhead. What a pair of characters they were. I still have Robby's 'playfully administered' teethmarks on my arse to prove it!

It never ceases to amaze me how, within a very short space of time, all the rawness, tragedy, richness, tenderness, violence and nonsensical humour of life is laid out for witness by a group of people who, only a few hours previous, were not even remotely aware of each others existence. I hope, pray even, I never lose such humbling a gift as 'being amazed and awestruck'. To me that was and always is the Gold.

Gales .... again & future in chaos.

' ...... and there will be severe gales in Northeast Scotland .....' Issued forth from the radio. 

"Well you needn't tell me cos I bloody well know!" Says a tired and fed up me from the sunshine of a quiet glen just south of Bettyhill on the north coast of Scotland. 

Last night, however; was very Different and frightening. It had been windy during my two nights at a clifftop campsite at Durness but the wind was tolerable and spirits were positive and high as we set off toward John O Groats via the strangely named 'Smoo cave'. Then it was onward through the stunning scenery of this wild, russet and purple coastal road. I proposed a stop at Strathy lighthouse and  when a convenient spot presented itself we decided to spend the night there. Sadies rear end was strategically placed facing the stiff breeze with the forward view being a wide vista taking in both Douneray across the bay and the Orkney Isles to our left. Beautiful. A walk to the lighthouse once again gave no Whale or Dolphin sightings at this, renowned for such sightings, peninsular. On returning to Sadie I noticed the breeze had stiffened somewhat although nowhere near the intensity of the previous two nights.

Well dear reader let us now move on to two am in the morning. I've had a little fitful sleep but the now screaming gale hitting Sadie square on her rear and, incidently, four inches from my pillowed head, had me wide awake and concerned for survival. There are two rear facing opening roof vents and these were giving noisy rattling notice of wishing to immediately and dramatically separate from the roof.  Thank goodness for the garden wire and bamboo canes I had purchased to repair my kite. Vents were duly secured from inside. I then gingerly ventured outside through a door that needed both strength and care if it were to retain the title of door rather than gaping hole and 'gone with the wind' piece of shredded plastic. Thankfully what was alarming and frightening from the inside of Sadie was actually holding together well upon outside inspection.

Morning finally came accompanied by bright blue sky, scudding clouds and an amazing whitecapped, enraged seascape. The wind however showed no sign of abating. I was at right angles to the road and it was getting busy. Five sheep, yes five with two more not ten minutes later, came trotting by totally unaffected by what must be to them normal weather. Now I am not a sheep and Sadie, side on would be presenting fifteen square metres of wind resistance rather than a sheep's woolly wind adapted profile.

"If I back out and turn ninety degrees we are gale fodder!", I muttered as I visualised a wheels up Sadie slithering down the coastal slope toward ultimate destruction on the wave lashed rocks way below us.

"Whoa! Whoa! C'mon Tanya, time to stop this destructive thinking, get out of Sadie and see what it is really like and how we get out of this mess." 

I tell you that was fun. Ever seen a three and a half legged small dog walking diagonally and leaning into the wind with her Schnauzer beard blowing into her eyes and her ears flapping like demented butterfly wings. I would have been doubled up with laughter had I not been struggling to stay on two feet myself. We managed to reach a deserted building about five hundred metres distance where I calculated I could tuck Sadie into the lee. Dare I attempt to drive her there though?

Sadie was started up and I waited for a quieter spell between the savage roof ripping gusts. 

"Here we go Tanya, here we go!" 

A clumsy and bumpy reverse out and then a quick dash to the lee of the building. Phew! We made it and the difference was noticed immediately with Sadie still rocking but not alarmingly so. I was exhausted and immediately stretched out on the bed where I remained fast asleep for the next hour.

I was awakened as another motorhome blithely, in the still screaming but bright and sunny winds, drove by. I felt a right wimp!  Until, that is, they returned, very much slower, stopped right by us, wound down the window and shouted across. 

"I see why you're there. Swear I went on two wheels just back there over the crest." 

I wished them safe journey and watched them gingerly move on and crab their way on down the exposed road.

They did however; give me the encouragement I needed to move on myself a little later. I backtracked to Bettyhill where I have come inland and South to this secluded little pull in at the side of the road on the Altnaharra estate.

Last night's whole experience was particularly difficult as my continuing this lifestyle had been thrown into disarray earlier in the evening. I received a phone call from my letting agent informing of my tenants giving one months notice to quit. This was Indeed unexpected and added a 'doom and gloom' mental attitude to the already storm induced worry and anxiety

This evenings mental state?  Ah well! Everything is for a reason. Guess it will sort itself out one way or the other.

North, North, North & blocked view.

"Well; will you look at that Tanya. A nearly empty campsite and they have to park right next to me and block my lovely sea view!" The grumpiness continued till after I had grabbed a late lunch snack and had a wee Woodward speciality, the five minute nap.

We were at Sango Sands campsite, Durness. After several days of meandering slowly up through the narrow roads and incredible scenery of West Scotland I fancied a campsite with long hot showers and also a mains hook up to fully re-charge my batteries. There was another 'blow you off yer feet' gale blowing with low visibility, horizontal rain, and in short, everything a North of Scotland Atlantic storm should be. Sadie was duly parked facing into the gale, electric was hooked up and there we sat, snug and rocky atop cliffs overlooking a beautiful beach. Yes; it was wind and rain swept but it was still beautiful. Tanya and I donned wet gear later in the evening and had a bracing walk along the golden sands right at the edge of the crashing and wind agitated waves.

This morning was very different. Still a strongish wind but clear blue sky and scudding white clouds. So it was off for a good coastal walk through the huge sand dunes and stunning beaches. Binoculars always at the ready too as it is a very good area for whale and Dolphin spotting. No sightings unfortunately. Until that is, we return tired and exhausted to be faced with this whale of a motorhome parked right next door and obstructing my lovely view. I was going to move but hey! Life is too short and grumpiness only makes it shorter. I've changed seats instead so now I'm looking out landward to the dramatic hills and, as the afternoon progresses, their cloaks of darkening grey fast moving clouds.

Tomorrow we move on toward John O Groats and then turn South toward Inverness where next weekend I'm re-visiting the Highland mini meet of Motorhomers which last year was my first proper outing in the newly purchased, and now much loved, Sadie.

Gales & barriers.

"No kite flying in this eh Tanya." I said as we slowly emerged into the morning after a night of rock n roll sleep as Sadie weathered the continuing force nine going on ten gale. Our spot just above Bostadh beach, Lewis, with its restored Iron age house and the tide and time Bell, one of twelve distributed at various beaches around the UK, was a wild location and the weather a dramatic change on the previous day. Such are the Hebrideas.

Indeed the day before we had enjoyed a wonderful sun drenched walk and climb to Ceapabhal followed by a skinny dip in the sea this time at the breeze sheltered end of a glorious white sand beach about a mile from where we had spent the night at Taobh Tuath, just up from Leverburgh, Isle of Harris.

I am sometimes reluctant to spend more than one night at a wildcamping spot where I see it is regularly used by locals for various leisure activities. So with the sun still shining we had slowly made our way to our current Atlantic gale bearing site. Very slowly in fact as narrow roads, stunning scenery at every twist and turn of the road and frequent 'passing place' stops do not equate to even medium, never mind fast, speed.

The weather was not improving so on we went. This time to the Butt of Lewis with a stop to visit the Callanaish stones. The site of the stones had a very good and well designed visitor centre. Even with the gale still blowing as it was I was able to sit in the sheltered courtyard with Tanya and enjoy a cup of coffee, half a sausage roll (guess who had the other half?) And a slice of very yummy apple pie.

Refreshing also was the emphasis the visitor centre exhibition put on not knowing the real meaning behind these circles and lines of stones. My take on it has an Olympic theme. "Right teams ready..... you've got your stones, rolling timbers and ropes and you have to move it one hundred deer leaps to before standing it up in the prepared hole. On your marks ...... GO!!" I figure it's as good a guess as any other with the winning team getting first pick at the barbecued seal.

The Butt of Lewis was interesting too albeit in a different way. Such a treeless and bare promontory in a force ten gale is no place to try and stand for a human never mind a three and a half going on four legged dog. We kept well away from any edges that was for sure.
The northern end of the Isle of Lewis is a flat and treeless landscape of peat moor, lakes and scattered communities. Sadie being a large box type house on wheels was, now we were heading across the island toward Stornaway, finding it quite difficult to stay on the road in the savage crosswind and horizontal rain. Slow going and dedicated concentration saw me pleased to finally drop down into Stornaway and its slightly less windy ferry terminal where we booked ourselves onto the six am ferry across to Ullapool.

A bollocking and a 'made to wait delay' was received from the 'jobsworth' ferry queue attendant before we finally boarded, set sail & enjoyed the full breakfast on offer in the cafe. Well I am getting older and I thought last arrival was 35minutes before boarding not 45minutes which is why I was faced with a barrier and the ferry queues on the other side of it. I thought I showed intelligence and initiative by noticing my obstruction was an unmanned. I unlocked the barrier which was very quickly negotiated placing me on the right side and at the back of the boarding qeue. Hmmmm! CCTV.  Need I say more! Never mind. Jobsworth seemed to thoroughly enjoy his power wielding and I managed to keep a straight face as I offered my abject, and of course completely sincere apologies.

You just have to laugh as these continual 'barriers' to life pursue you......!